Tuesday 14 November 2017

Experience of My Delhi – Kolkata – Darjling – Sikkim – Delhi Journey – Part 2

 Outside station, many yellow color Ambassador Cars are in a file. Ambassador cars? Till now? Strange!!! Ambassador cars have been vanished from India long ago and here these cars still exists?  But if so then I will love to experience ride in this car. I was thinking about it and a guy comes to me for taxi. My first question to him is – do you have ambassador car taxi ?  He replied with big smile – yes Me ‘am. Then I ask him anything else…


Soon after I was in yellow color ambassador taxi. Taxi guy, copper color, white hair old man, has started conversation in Bengali but I cleared him that I don't understand the language. Then he starts with Bengali mix Hindi.  He turn back his neck and says - I am 76 year old and been through the two heart attacks and a brain-hamirage. My financial conditions are not good so still working. Suddenly he asks about me. I told him - I am from Nainital. He seriously says – Oh !!! Your state has faced serious catastrophe of Kedarnath this year. Whole state has divested badly. He is well aware of my city and state. I must say again that Bengalis are well-educated people...

He is still talking but I fix my eyes outside from window. Cultural and historical city is in front of my eyes. Many old British buildings are on the way. Some maintained but some are dying. Old buses are running on road but what seeks my attention is Tram. Trams are still in function here. I am excited to see the city in two days as much possible. Driver still talking but I am indulging to see the city. Soon I reach hotel...

Get a quick shower I back to road again.  As I reach on road one tram across me but I cannot sit in tram because tram has fix stop points. I start walking on foothpath along with many shops like tire puncture shops, grocery shop, musical instruments shop, iron smith shop and so on. Road has traffic but not like other metro cities...



 I have no any fix agenda for this journey so I will only go the places where local will advise me to go. I wanna roam around Kolkata without making any plan.

Bengalis are well-educated and simple people. They love talking with outsiders and have enough time to tell address for any place, they have enough time to ask about you and they have enough time to tell about themselves too. This is the reason Bengal still carry the Adda (gossip points) culture...

I went to a shopkeeper and ask him where I can go from here ?  Shop keeper who have grocery shop, came out and asks me about myself then tells me – You can go to Kalighat Temple. Then he wave his hand in front direction – go this side, you will reach to a crossway from there you may get bus or taxi both.  I ask him – will tram go there? He says with giggle – no. So now I am going to Kalighat Temple. Soon I reach crossway but this is busy one. I saw few buses too but all are madly packed so I will take taxi…

This area looks posh with heavy traffic. I try to talk with taxi driver, around 30, tall and tiny, but he don’t understand Hindi properly. In his Bengali mix Hindi he says like a keen politician - Mamta Banarjee’s government is not doing good work for the state. CPI should back in government. Outside window, a huge Church is showing its presence from far away. Driver tells me something about it but couldn’t understand. My taxi is sweeping between the whirlpool of heavy traffic which includes Buses, Old buses, Rickshaw, even Hand rickshaws are still exist here. Most of the buses have very decorative and artistic windows, which seeking my attention…


I reach Kalighat Temple. Once upon this temple was famous for sacrifices but now it's a history. On my way to temple, I stopped by many shopkeepers who are selling paraphernalia for temple. Many shops taking my attention for the stuff they are selling like Goddess Durga’s face on Dry grass bowl. One seller is only selling the statues of different god and goddess. One old lady seller has also stall here. Wrinkle of her face says that she must be very needy that is why she works in this age too…


Crossing market, I enter into tiny street, which covered with both side shops. Everybody offer me good stuff for prayer and few offered me to keep my shoes in free. Everybody is forcing me to buy and few had threatened me by saying - if you will not perform puja Goddess will punish you. I am shocked. Meanwhile a young priest comes and says - I will arrange shortcut visit to main Goddess temple. Shortcut visit for temple !!! time for another shock. These experiences are heartbreaking. I cannot keep my shoes in open so I bought few things form shop and shopkeeper will do priest job for me too…



I reaches into temple promises which is almost empty. I easily visit to main temple without using any shortcut. Jet-black face shining with sharp red color eyes statue magnetize my attention through the narrow window. Before I could understand anything priest pulled out me. He don’t want me to stay there for long. Kalighat temple is not huge but historical. I went to a tributary of Ganga nearby my heart sink again to see the condition of the river. Its stinking badly. Mud and garbage have covered most of the area over which mosquitoes are hovering and more of that one man washing utensils. Though river is long but tiny…

Back to road, I saw hand pulling rickshaw puller. I went to him and ask about nearby place. Tiny middle-aged man says lying on his rickshaw – go to the metro station and take metro for Esplanade. So my next destination has decided now. I sit on rickshaw. Though I find it very inhuman but this is giving job to many jobless people so its good. I ask him – where you from ? He turns his head towards me and says - From Bihar and pulling rickshaw here since last 30 years. My family lives in a village of Bihar. I visit my village every year and send them money every month. My old mother live there with my wife and three children. I want to live with them but there is no work therefore I am working here. He dropped me at metro station...


Before going inside the metro station I need to eat something. I stroll in a narrow street cramped with shops both side. I went to restaurant and order for the Thali in which I get dal, two types of vegetable, roti, curd, chatni and pickle. Soon I get my platter of food. Food is enough for me and its yummy. I order coffee too. When I take first sip of coffee, I am so much impressed. Now I am done so ask for bill. Bill must be around 300 bucks or something but I am amazed to see 40 Rupees only. I went to reception and confirm it again but bill is correct. 40 Rupees bill including coffee. Kolkata is very cheap place. Even in this time you can get proper food in only 30 Rupees. Unbelievable for me...

After food, I stroll in market and back to metro station. In metro, I haven’t faced security checks like Delhi. I get ticket and wait for metro, which will arrive in 15 minutes. Station has decorated with mosaic paintings depicting Indian mythology and British Era. Metro arrive and I entered. Its crowded like anything. This metro is old Non AC metro. In kolkata metro started in 1994 and old metros are still in working conditions. For air ventilation upper glass of metro has been removed. In this crowd, I forget to get out in my station so I off in next station where somebody advice me to take return metro for Esplanade…


 Esplanade is a huge and beautiful British architect building. Many shops and offices are in this building. This is very broad area and I came opposite side of the building to see another angle of it. Now I again ask to a local guy about next place. Advice I get is Howrah Bridge. He also tells me that I can take bus for the place even he himself is also waiting for the same bus. Drizzle starts and I enjoyed it until bus arrives. I entered into blue bus with decorated window. Bus is crowded too but conductor gave me his seat now I can enjoy cool breeze and beautiful scenario of kolkata...

Wearing Khaki dress young conductor gives me ticket. I give him money and he returns me extra money without asking change. Ticket is very cheap. He does not ask me for change like other part of India. The way he is folding currency between his fingers is attractive…

Everybody in bus is busy in talking but I do not understand anything because they are speaking in Bengali. This area is vast beautiful and clean. Drizzling is still up…

I cover huge area by bus to reach Howrah Bridge.  Howrah Bridge is long and huge iron suspension bridge. This bridge is famous for its architect. Bus is now entering inside the bridge. I can feel the vibration of bridge inside bus. This is really a giant structure. Uncounted traffic is moving on the bridge and uncounted people are walking on the bridge.  Conductor drops me in front of Howrah Railway Station. Red color building made in British Architect is in front of me…


I take turn and huge River Hooghly is there. I went near to river I comes to know that I can go for ferry ride too. Find out ticket center and ask him – Sir where can I go from here ? Ticket wander is an old man. He looks me through his speck and asks me – new to Kolkata? I replied with smile – yes. He smile back and says – you can go to Baaga Bazar and take return ticket to back here…


I went to deck and wait for ferry. Duck is bustling with passengers. One ferry reach to deck and some passenger came out and some get inside but this ferry is not going to Baaga Bazaar so I have to wait. For me ferry ride is exciting thing but the people of Kolkata use it to move one place to other. This is the part of their daily life. Howrah Bridge is showing huge presence from here and background of blue sky and clouds are making it beautiful. Few wanders are selling food stuffs...


 Ferry arrives and I enter into it. Atmosphere inside ferry is completely different. It was again full. I made little efforts to make my space. Center area of ferry covered with long wood benches. Some passengers are sitting on them some are standing and some are holding hangers hanging from roof. Its sultry inside. I come to an open place from where I could see the River Hooghly. When everyone settled ferry start with ballistic sound of engine. After a while, ferry is flowing on brown color water of river like ocean. Cold breeze starts blowing and making weather pleasant. Few wanders are selling tea and Jhalmuri (Bengali junk food) in ferry but bad part is that all are throwing plastic garbage in river.

As ferry moving forward scenario is changing every time.  Many small places are existing on the bank and reflections of these places are spinning in water. Ferry moves below Howrah Bridge. Huge bridge is above us. I am immersed by the beauty of river Hooghly but now time to get off because my station has come…


Where ferry dropped me is Hindu graveyard. Smock coming through burning bodies is making atmosphere smoky and air smells different. Row of mud shacks are along with the graveyard, which sell funeral paraphernalia to the people. Beyond these shacks, huge British architect colony is existing. I could not go further coz it was getting dark. I back to Ferry station when I saw few kids are engage in a small procession I could not understand. Anyway I back to ferry stand and get return ticket for Howrah Bridge...


Atmosphere of ferry is still same but dusk filled everything in yellow light.  River Hooghly is glittering in this light and making landscape amazingly beautiful. Cold breeze is enhancing the beauty. Soon I reach to my destination. Howrah Bridge is giving different feel in night. I start walking on wide footpath along with Howrah Bridge. Until I walk on bridge, it was continuously vibrating due to vehicle vibration. I stand for a while to gaze the River Hooghly, which is sprinkling dusk light …

Crossing bridge, I come to main road. Then again, I ask to someone for bus to my hotel. Fruit wander advice me – take little walk and reach to bus stop from there you will get bus. While I walk, I saw huge flower market down side. Almost every type of flowers are selling here. After crossing this market, I reach narrow vegetable market and then to bus stop…

This bus is yet again jam-packed. I somehow arrange seat but I am uncomfortable. Passengers are busy in chatting in Bengali. This is M.G. road, which I saw in shops address beside with road. I am cramp in bus and somehow manage to take ticket. Luckily I soon reach my destination. However, this is not my hotel. Bus conductor advice me to take auto rickshaw for hotel. I take auto rickshaw and through the many narrow streets I reach my hotel…

I am tired but I went out for dinner. Receptionist suggests me not to go far this time. I went to nearby Bengali restaurant and order for Bengali food. He serves me Bengali plate including dal chokha, aloo chokha, chawal and few more. As I didn’t know how to eat it so I finished my food in my way but later he tells me how to eat food. Anyway, now I need something sweet so order for Misti Doi but my hard luck they don’t have this so I order Rausogulla...

Everything has been closed by now. Street is in dark. I back to my room and slept... 

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Thursday 2 November 2017

Experience of My Delhi – Kolkata – Darjling – Sikkim – Delhi Journey – Part 1

Sitting in Kathgodam Railway Station and waiting for train to Delhi. Actually I didn’t want to take risk of landslide in rain season. From Delhi will take train for Kolkata. From Kolkata I will go to Darjling then Sikkim then back to Delhi and back to Nainital. Indeed a long journey…

Kathgodam railway station is small and beautiful. One of my favorite places for wait. I love stroll one end to another end rather than sitting in a place. This railway station is single platform railway station so no madly hustle-bustle. After a while I went into waiting room. Mostly ladies are here. Men must be strolling outside. I noticed mostly ladies are interested in talking about television serials which is boring. I back and went out for strolling. Now station is in little hustle coz Jammu-Tavi-Express is on platform. Before leaving station rail, release deep dark black and suffocative smoke from engine, which has polluted everything. After train left station become quiet and peaceful again…

Sitting on chair I starts observing people. Two young guys come and sit next to me. Both are busy with their mobiles and earphone. No one has time to see their surroundings. One father-son couple also takes place on my other side. Son is though simple but father seems irrational. He is scolding someone on phone in an very insulting way. My train is about to come so time to go. I meet one Bengali family and lady member asks me – where you going ? I replied – Kolkata. Her straight question is – Alone ? and why are you going to Kolkata. Luckily train arrived and I went to my coach because I had no answer for these stupid questions…

Trains are always a complicated question for me so it takes time to find my coach and my seat inside coach. After little struggle, I find my seat and just after me Punjabi family arrives. Punjabis are good people. Traveling with them is safe but lady in this family is bit complicated by nature. I don’t understand why she is trying to show that she belongs to richest family on this earth. After little noise, atmosphere become peaceful though family is still busy in chatter. Soon all fall asleep and I become alone. Disadvantage of night journey is that you cannot see anything outside and lying down is boring for me. Middle of the night I went to the door and stand for long time. It is pleasant to see outside in fresh cool breeze. Village or town or city are coming and going fast. I only can see the lights and then again, all become dark. In one station, few more passengers come into my coach and soon all become quite again. Early morning 3 AM train reaches Delhi station…

  It was too dark yet and Delhi is not a safe this time to move alone so I spend time at station until morning. I searched every place to sit but people are sleeping everywhere. I guess homeless people also come here for the shelter. Though its irritating but I cannot blame people who are sleeping like this. Its the failure of policies which still could not provide them a shelter…

  This railway station is dirty and filthy. Luckily I get seat after strolling long. I am not in mood of strolling coz I am tired and sleepy. Though place is dirty but I have no choice and I am too tired to stay stand up anymore. Next to my seat, a paralytic man is sitting but which attracts me a lot is his brother who is taking care of him like anything. Indeed a lovely and caring brother. Suddenly one train comes to platform and I am amused to see that every doors and windows are cover with hanging milk pots. When train stops, many milkmen come out. I think locals use it for their daily uses.  Anyway after spending two n half hours in the station I comes out take auto rickshaw for Nizamuddin Railway Station. My train time is 4 PM so again a long wait…

Crossing long area and security checks I reach into AC waiting but it is jam pack. I went to wash room which again bulking with women and floor dump in water. Without wasting time, I left the washroom pick up my backpack and off to find out clock room where I could put my luggage. Now I am again on road. As I comes out from station many rickshaw guys are keep coming and asking - where I wanna go ?  Which I myself even don’t know right now…

I am hungry and Chadni Chawk is best place to satisfy my hunger glands.  Sit in an e-rickshaw travelling through the polluted road I reach Chadni Chawk, which is crowded like always. I walk in a narrow street and find out a decent restaurant. Ordered paneer paratha and Kauchuri…




Now I will go to Red Fort. Independence Day is round the corner hence decoration work is on peak. Labors are hanging on walls to clean them. Weather is cloudy and sultry. Few tourists are busy in taking pictures. 




I think to go to Jama Masjid (mosque) as it is Roza Month so I will get good pictures but when I reached I been stopped outside. Man wearing white Kurta-Payjama, white cap asks me – show your ticket.  What ? – I reply in a question. Its free – I said amusing. But you carrying camera – he justifies. Oh this is the reason anyway I ask for ticket - 900 Rupees only – he said normally. With stretching eyes, I take turn and back to road again. Man shout from behind - you can go without camera too. Going without camera is absolute useless so I ignore him. 


Strolling on road, I eat meetha paan (sweet beetle) stuffed with many ingredients. While chewing paan I thought to go to underground market of Palika Bazar in Connaught Place. I take metro for Palika Bazar. Palika Bazar is underground market where you can buy anything in cheap price. I am not here to buy anything but to kill time. In this busy market photography is not allowed. I went inside the fully air conditioned market. Spending time here is relaxing. I walk through the narrow lanes inside. Both sides of the lanes have shops. All lanes are connecting with other lanes and almost everything is available here. This is huge market. After roaming around, I sit in a place. People are busy in shopping and shopkeepers have many ideas to attract them. I find mostly youngsters are coming here. Meanwhile in this cozy temperature I take a small power nap too. I kill long time here and now its time to go back to the Railway Station… 

I collect luggage and went to platform. Train is on time. I find seat and sit with big relief. Other passengers in which one man and a family with husband wife and little girl also come. Other seats are empty. In a while train moves and I set my eye on window...

Scenario of outside is changing every minutes. When all get settle then we introduced ourselves. Man is from Delhi and going Kolkata for official visit. Family is from Jharkhand. They came Delhi to visit his in-laws. All become busy after this introduction. Husband wife busy in their personal chat while man gets busy over phone. When the man is talking with female his voice becomes soft and sophisticated while talking with males his voice become tough…

After a while train boy appears with lemon juice which is most demanding thing for me this time. Soon I fall asleep. I wake up when train boy come with soup and lunch. Delhi man is still busy over phone and I can guess he is talking with a girl coz his voice is soft and sophisticated. I sip soup and little girl playing with father and want go back to Delhi for her grandmother. Husband looks me with smile and says - my daughter loves her grandmother very much. My mother is old and sick so she can’t travel anywhere…

Sky fills with rainbow colors of dusk. This is magical and spell bound. Soon train attended serve dinner. I sleep soon after dinner...

Its cloudy everywhere in morning when I wake up. Family is getting ready to leave as there station is about to come. From here, two security guards are on duty outside each coach. This area is Naxlide area that is why security is tight here. In station, many army soldiers are roaming everywhere… 

Soon Dhanbad arrives and the family leaves. Beautiful green fields and huge rivers are in the scene. Jamshedpur is next station. A thin black layer of smoke is covering whole city. This area is famous for steel factory and smoke coming from chimneys of steel factory…

I indulge in the outside scenario when a melodious voice breaks my focus and get me back into compartment. Voice is coming from next compartment. Some guy is singing Bengali song in a very pleasant and melodious voice. Voice is resembling with great sing Shri S. D. Burman ji and I am imagining a boat a river and a boatman and ofcourse me too and S.D. Burman’s  song Mere sajan hai us paar, Mai man maar hu is paar, O mere majhi abki baar le chal paar…

But I back to present when I saw the Kolkata city is welcoming me with big flyover, traffic jam, crowd, pollution. Train reaches to Syalde railway station. Huge station is bursting with a mob of people. When I came out, Splash of hot wind spank on my face to make me realize the temperature and ocean of people is making me crazy… 

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