When I was In Jim Corbett National Park – Part 3

Soon I reached another trail which is going to Garjiya Devi Temple. Though road is rough but bikes are running in full speed. Below road crystal clear river Koshi flowing peacefully. I come across with narrow iron suspension bridge looking stunning in verdant valley. After crossing it jungle trail start and path become narrower. Jungle is buzzing with the sounds of many birds. Weather is warm, few devotees coming from temple and some youngsters enjoying swimming in river. Far behind this I can see huge cement constructed bridge. Soon I glimpse Garjiya Devi temple on the top of peak with blue sky backdrop. I cross few small temples and a rickety wood bridge to reach temple side. Extensive part of river is filled with sand. On this spongy sand mattress I walk for long and reached to makeshift shops area which exist when river go down and sand acquire the entire river bank. All shop keepers selling paraphernalia for worship. As it’s Diwali so hustle is bit more. Ignoring all I went to restaurant to satisfy my hunger cells but I only could get maggi and tea. Long strait stairs are going up to temple seems like going to moon where a priest chanting mantras sitting inside small shrine and few devotees have circled him. Temples’ walls painted with slogans written by devotees. I am amazed to see that people don’t stop here too. They don’t want to do anything for their self but want to god. Railing is tied with small red clothes… 

I back to makeshift market where sellers wants me to buy something. Meanwhile I saw a young guy around 24-25 hanging camera on shoulder and roaming around. His curly long hairs tied in pony, white shirt black pant make him attractive. I went him to talk - are you photographer ? Yes – he reply gazing my camera. What photography you do ? Marriage photography and in off season I come to place like this and do photography for people. I know you don’t want me to take your picture coz you yourself carrying a big camera. He still gazing my camera. Did you ever try photography for competition ? No ! never I could not get this opportunity because I have to earn money for my family. I saw disappointment on his eyes which are busying hunting people who want them photograph. I left him with his hunt and moved on to other side of market which is not makeshift but interesting…

I crossed huge cement bridge which is only source when water gets up in rain time. Many characters are moving here. I sit in a corner and start observing. Devotees come to make wish. Besides them some baggers, some sellers, some saints and may be some should be like me who have no particular reason for being here. Market filled with colorful imitating items and worship items but apart from these I found few unusual things like one seller has a mobile restaurant handcart. He had made hearth on it. Good idea - I said. He smiled and said - I save fuel and serving healthy food to customers. Do you know fuel is an expensive option nowadays? Don’t understand whether he was asking or saying but anyways I took his picture and went off… 

I moved towards a saint who busying chanting mantras in alone and looking down continuously as he is in deep thought. He start saying – I was child when I left home and took sanyas. I roamed into many places and spent long time in Himalaya. I still don’t like staying in one place for long time but now I become old can’t walk and also can’t tolerate cold. He shows me his hands and legs which were badly swelled. I left him with his loneliness and back. I am still ignoring sellers but one sweet little girl came and ask me to buy something. Her sweet and innocent voice made me buy something from her and then back to bridge again where few young guys were preparing for water games. Good to know that they doing it professionally and creating self job opportunity. I spend little time with these guys…

I want to ride in open jeep so went to jungle safari though I couldn’t found anything special in jungle but weather is pleasant so the ride of 3-4 hours is enjoyable. When I turned it was dark but due to Diwali all market and houses were lighting with Diyas and Deepmala. In night I roamed into village where everyone enjoying festival creaking crackers but sound is not loud which could hit eardrums badly. I was gazing into houses as well. Almost everyone welcomed me and also alerting me from crackers. It’s a chance that I meet that girl again whom I meat last evening. She invited me at her house…

Her father, mother and uncle came to welcome me and said - our house is not big and this year we could not earn enough money so we are not celebrating festival lavishly. Her younger brother and sister want me to crack crackers with them which they bought from their savings. After this woman offered me Roti-Sabji for dinner – it’s too simple but we have only this to offer you – Said unhappily. Though I don’t want to eat but the way she offered me I couldn’t refuse. After dinner girl came to me and said with her shy full smile - I want to learn dance but my father has no money to send me dance collage. Can you give me any idea how can I learn dance without money ?  She looked me with hope but I know I will disappoint her so I concentrate watching her house rather than her problem. I back to my tent after. It was cold and windy night. Roaring sound of river and wind breaking the silence…

Morning is bone chilled cold but I have to back so no option to curl up into quilt again. I went to river spent some time in silence. Blue water flows over my feet making them wet and cold. Little water birds are flying and chirping. Few sand diggers digging sand from bank and transporting it on mules. I become part of everything happening here. After this quality time I back, finished breakfast and went to see Tiger Reserve Museum Dhangarhi…

Where I meat Ram Singh the museum peon. He said – I have seen tigers many times and he attacked me also. Once he attacked to my friend badly. He injured for long time and then died. Our life is in high risk. If tiger come in front we are not even able to protect our self. No one can get rid of his huge jaws. Once tiger attacked a village woman who went jungle for grass. She wounded badly and could not survive. One of my co-worker had been faced tiger 5-6 times and at last he died to fight with tiger. His wrinkled face becomes more wrinkled and gloomy. We don’t have any protection - he said with dull face and then he told me one more story - Once a man going on his bike, tiger jumped on him from bushes and dragged his body inside jungle. After three four hours when his body found it was badly injured…

I spent time listen his bravery stories. Now I am no more interested to see museum. As I had no vehicle so my plan is to walk till bus stand. He advised me it’s unsafe area so better to wait for vehicle. I took his advice and wait for vehicle. Weather is pleasant, jungle echoing with birds chirping and for my good fortune I took lift in share taxi till bus stand. Bus stand is in complete mess. No one is there to tell me about bus but meanwhile I got bus till Haldwani. On the way at barrage I saw group of Rudy Shelduck bird also known as Surkhab. I got time to take few clicks of them. From Haldwani I got another bus for Nainital…

End...

When I was in Jim Corbett National Park - Part 1

I am strolling in bus stand to find bus for Ramnagar as I want to go Jim Corbett Park. Though I know Corbett Park is close nowadays but outskirt area of the park has still open and my intention is only to spend some time in wilderness with peace because next day is Diwali Festival and it becomes chaotic in cities…

Few young taxi drivers are moving around me and giving me good offer but I ignored them. I can’t take risk for my life to go with these inexperienced louts who don’t follow any rules and they don’t have any fix rate. Bus stand was free from any bustle only few flower wanders and sugarcane wanders are moving around. I wait for 10 mints and get Uttarakhand Roadways bus till Haldwani. I entered into bus which is almost empty. Only 4-5 passengers are there...

After 1.30 hrs bus dropped me at Haldwani bus stand. Like always this bus stand is bustling with lots of activities but today station is bit more bustling. I can feel the essence of festival. I roam one end to other but no bus is going to Ramnagar. I went to inquiry where a middle aged women wearing squire frame spectacle with boy cut hair looked me offended and told rudely -one and half hours later one bus will go to Ramnagar. I went off suspiciously and back to station where buses, rickshaws, motorcycles, cows and  baggers sprinting in narrow place and making conditions more adverse… 

A ramshackle bus was there and conductor is shouting – Kaladhungi!!! Ramangar!!! Haridwar!!! Ramangar echoed into my ears and I almost ran to bus and jumped on seat. Roadways buses are generally overcrowded and ofcourse grimy. Travelling by these buses is an ordeal decision but I had no other choice. Bus has been almost full and ready to move. 27-28 years old man wearing Jean and black T-shirt came and asked for ticket. I got ticket and open window. Outside it is noisy and streets are cramped with shops selling festival paraphernalia and bus is sticking in this jam…

When everything settled inside I indulge in pandemonium of bus which is like Live Nautanki. Newly married couple sitting behind me is engaged in verbal fighting. Woman wants to celebrate festival in city but man wants to go village and celebrate with his family. Family sitting next to me is planning to buy a LCD TV on Dewali. Two kids has plan to crack  firecracker… 

At Kaladhungi passengers shuffled and bus move again. After this atleast outside scenario became pleasant coz this road moves between thick jungle though the bus is bumping in every 5 minutes. I reached Ramangar by noon where bus dropped me at bus stand. I asked for jim Corbett office which is next to stand so I walked there and ask for accommodation. An old man, moving his spectacle up from his nose, told – Park is not yet open so we can not provide you any accommodation inside. You may try out. There are so many hotels. I came out where touts and guides grabbed me and start giving me offer for safari and hotels in which obviously I am not interested...

I went to KMVN office and asked them for a room in jungle area. They gave me idea to stay in tent colony which is in Dhikuli, a small village bit far from city. It’s very hot and messy here. I went to a shop and bought some stuff and wait for auto. Everybody wants to make money so no one is going in share base. I had to book auto in 200 Rs. This 15-16 years young boy, I am sure he even would not have driving license, driving very roughly. All the time I was bumping onto my seat and keep saying – Slowly slowly slowly but he haven’t listened me...

I reached tent colony which is in peaceful place. This is swish style tent attached with bathroom. I got bath take lunch and want to rest for while but it’s too hot inside. I came out where cold breeze blowing and making atmosphere relaxed. Later, I went to river side which is only few meter away. I heard river sound and walked fast…

At the river side two young guys catching fishes though it’s illegal.

I told – its illegal ? 

They looked me perplexed – it is but we do catch fishes.

 

What if anybody will see you ? - They only shout. What else they will do ?  Boys then giggled and ignored me. I leaved them and sit in a silence place. Two elephants are coming far from jungle. These elephants do elephant-safari work and source of huge money.  Two guys were crossing river and going to middle part of river. And after a while I rolled my jean up remove my shoes and went to river. However water force is not much but in few places it was high. I walked on and reached the middle part which is dry. I set dipped me feet into cool water and enjoyed sun set. River looks like blue curved ribbon. Verdant valley filled with sun set colors and echoing with the roar of river and chirping birds nothing is here to disturb.  After this refreshment I moved down where villagers are collecting wood and other stuff...

My feet were filled with sand and irritating me. Anyways I reached down side and there I talk with young man who is local here. His name is Mahesh. 

Mahesh says – I have a land here and I rented it to camp site. I do work as a guide also.

Is this your work ? – No, I do work at Kashipur in Hotel.

Why ? – Because they are giving me enough money.

Two girls are here to get drinking water in Copper vessel. Both study in same school and same class. We often do not come here – one girl told me.

Why ?

This is dangerous place. We have seen tiger many times. Other girl said with scarred voice –  I heard his voice once which was very scary. I could not sleep for 2-3 nights after that.  Her eyes opened fully. 

Then only I saw two women crossing river with bundle of woods carrying on their head. This is such a thing which hurts me but here more heart breaking thing is two guys sitting at the bank drinking Alcohol and laughing at the women. I waited for them to cross. Both are mother and daughter. 

Where from you getting these woods ?

Girl smiled and shied – From jungle.

Everyday you go there to collect wood – Yes, her mother replied

For what ?

For kitchen fire. We used to make food on fire only.

Why don’t you use gas or stove ?

These are very expensive. We can’t afford.

What else you do ?

We have land here and do farming but it’s very expensive now so my husband do work in a shop – woman reply adjusting wood bundle on her head.

I asked to girl now. You studying – yes ! in 12^th class. She giggled and her tooth shined in dark.

And you get time for all these works along with your school ?

My school has closed for Diwali. In my school days I only do inside works.

You saw tiger ?

This time I received answer from Mahesh – so many times. They come for water. Elephants and other jungle animal also come for water. 

It was almost dark and an old man holding wood stick went to river and crossed it in full speed. Mahesh told me that he will back in half n hour with bundle of wood. They were in hurry to go home so I did not stop them. I also made my way back to hotel but Mahesh offered me to have tea with his family…

Continued…