Tapovan : A Life Time Experience - Part - 4

After almost half-n hour, I wake up and move towards Babaji’s Hut. There I saw a man wearing trek-suit, sunglass and covered his head with white cloth. His curly and knotted hairs are poking out from the head cloth. Babaji looks me when I greet him. He greets me back with hand gesture. Amit introduce me to Babaji and says – He is Mauni Baba (reticent hermit). He doesn’t speak to anybody. He explains his feelings through the hand gestures. I know him from many years so I understand his language. After introduction, I sit at verandah where Amit serve me tea in small steel glass. With the sip of tea, I saw the group of blue sheep moving in front of Babaji’s hut where a little creek is flowing. I ask about the creek to Amit. He tells me – This is Aakas Ganga comes from Peak Shivlinga and merge with River Bhagirathi in Gaumukh. River Aakash Ganga is a real source of River Ganga...

I am so much exhaust so I only watch them moving around with the sip of tea. After a while when I get my breath back I slowly went to near the place to observe them roaming freely. I am amaze to see that they are so confident that I am not gonna harm to them. One baby Blue Sheep comes in front of my camera lens and then his or her mother come and take him off from my camera. They are running and eating and drinking water and relaxing and enjoying warmth in frosty temperature. They show every possible drama in this open amphitheater of nature. Then suddenly all went far away from my eyes. I turn back after watching the refreshing show…

By the time, I back Amit call me for lunch. I went into the Babaji’s small but neat and clean corrugated roof hut made of stones. Mud floor has covered with woolen mats. Hut is warm and cozy. In one corner, Babaji’s kitchen existing where he makes food on kerosene stove. Babaji serves Khichdi, which is no doubt very tasty. After lunch Amit show me my hut which is same like Babaji’s hut. In one corner of this hut has temple and in other corner Babaji has stored bedding for the guests who stay here. I take my bedding place it on the floor and I lie down for some time…

In the evening I went for a long walk near to the River Akash Ganga. Suddenly weather become nasty and snow fall starts. I can see the snow flacks falling on my face and on my clothes. I am far from my hut which is scary because there is no any shelter where I can hide. It is a big relief to see one hut in distant. I walk towards hut to get shelter. One more Babaji (hermit) welcome me there. I am surprise to see him because I was thinking hut is deserted. Anyway, I greet to Babaji and went near to the hut. He lit the fire and asks me to come near it. He asks me after some time – am I here for trekking ? I nodded my head in yes…

Now when I am comfortable I saw the Babaji. Copper color face normal eyes long mated locks hair tie on head sweet spoken person is a Baba’ji. I ask him about him – he says with very soft voice – I am Sai Muni. Living here for Tapshya (meditation). He invites me inside the hut, which is same like Mauni Babaji’s hut. Burning kerosene stove to make herbal tea he said – I have cooking gas too but gas has been finished and its not easy to get gas cylinder here in this altitude so I use kerosene stove too. He offers me tea and says – Its herbal tea. It will give you warmth in this weather. I take a first sip and really, tea is very flavorsome. I can feel the flavor of different herbs. With the sip of tea he tells me about him and says – Life is very difficult here in winters. In coming winter, I might go somewhere else for meditation. After spend a good time with him I turn back. However Its not snow fall now but very chilly…

It is almost dark when I reach to my hut and Amit calls for dinner. Dinner is another delicacy in 5000 mt altitude. Babaji serves me delicious green vegetable with fried yellow lentil dal and rice. Amit Tell me that babaji is appreciating my efforts to reach in this height. After dinner he gives me boil water to drink with smiling face. I wash my pots and back to hut. Sky is crystal clear and stars are shining like a diamonds though chilly temperature is making it impossible to stay out...

I wake up early morning stars are still in the sky but soon it becomes sunrise.  Peak Bhagirathi, Peak Shivling, Peak Meru and other peaks are gleaming in the beauty of morning rays. I again go for a little walk. When I back Babaji gives me porridge for breakfast. After breakfast I pack my stuff and start return trek. This time trek would be steep descent. I cross this glacier patch fast before it gets hot and glacier start melting…

 From Goumukh trek is easy so I walk like a lazy girl. I can again feel the sound of River Bhagirathi, sound of cold chilly wind. I can be a part of huge mountains and snow peaks. I can again see the color of jungle. Now it’s time to leave everything behind, so not feeling good. I sit in a place to inhale this beauty inside me. I see the River which is bending between the valley here and sky is busy with nomad clouds. Everything is so pure and so beautiful. Yesterday when I was going to Tapovan all were coming near to me but now all are going away slowly slowly. This is the part of every trekking. With the very slow speed, I reach the campsite…

I reach ashram by lunch. After lunch, I pitch my tent. In dusk, I went for short walk near River Bhagirathi. Peaks are blazing in evening light however chilly winds are making temperature freezing. When I back entertaining and hilarious gully cricket match has been start but soon all went to the Ashram as it was seriously cold. I too went to Ashram for dinner. Sky is shining with lots of stars and galaxies but temperature is killing so I went into tent… 

Whole night I struggle with cold. When I wake up in the morning my tent had layered with frost. When I saw all around, it was frosty everywhere. Night must be chilly no doubt. Due to frost, my fingers get numb even inside the gloves. I try to fold my sleeping bag and remove my tent but my hands are still numb. I went to Ashram for the breakfast. When I back, sun has spread rays over the valley and white layer of frost has start melting slowly. I roam around in sun light to warm myself, then pack up everything, and get ready for trek…

 I am walking slowly as if I want to make distance longer. Its tough to get back from such places. With my every forward step, everything is leaving behind and I am going near to civilization again. Colorful jungle, huge peaks of Himalaya, River Bhagirathi everything is leaving behind. Though River Bhagirathi will be with me till Uttarakshi but yes this is the most beautiful part of River Bhagirathi with roaring voice. I am walking walking walking and just thinking of all these only. I am in my own when Amit stop me from behind and says _ we reached Chirbasa. Now take little rest then will move forward. I wanna tell him that I don’t wanna move but I know I have to go…

I stop in Chirbasa and I start getting the sign of civilization. In a small hut-restaurant I wanna drink tea and eat something but due to price issue I haven’t eat anything though I am badly hungry. I saw Maggi’s Noodle packets here, which have been banned in all over India. Anyway I walk further and get away from the place. Trek is easy now and I am near to the Gangotri.  Soon leaving everything behind I reach Gangotri… 

In Gangotri I ate lunch and then after lots of struggle get taxi for Uttarakashi. I will stay in a same place at Uttarakhsi and next morning I will go to Dehradoon and then to Nainital. Bus and taxi journey is more tiresome then the trekking... 

After all struggles I spend, a beautiful and memorable time in trekking and now its time for rest at home…

End 

Tapovan : A Life Time experience - Part - 3

Weather was clear but cold when I wake up in the morning. I move straight to Ashram for tea and breakfast. Then pack-up my tent and sleeping bag dump them in the Ashram coz Amit told me I can get everything in another ashram at Tapovan. After done all packing I start trek. Today’s trek would be straight till Goumukh but after Gaumukh it will be difficult. I start trek in sunny and bright weather. Few small and naughty clouds are playing with deep blue sky. Though trek is plain but whole path is rocky, on which I have to be careful with balance otherwise my feet can be bend between rocks…

 Anyway keep the road aside but scenario is still beautiful. River Bhagirathi is flowing like serpent with roaring voice colorful jungle is giving the essence of springtime. Above all huge Himalayan peaks are showing their strong presences. Till the Goumukh many devotees are walking in groups. As I like walking alone, so I am trying to walk fast so that no one can bother me.  After three hours of trekking, I reach Gaumukh…

 It says Goumukh is a source of River Ganga. Shape of this source is like cow’s mouth so it’s called Goumukh. Goumukh Glacier is the largest glacier of Asia too. I want to go to near to the source but Amit told me in warning tone- it is dangerous so better not to go near. Stones fall every time from upward and melting snow pieces are making it more dangerous. Then I went near to the River Bhagirathi to touch the water, which is chilled and few saints are bathing in this chilled water. Strange…

I sit silently in one place and gaze around. Whole valley surrounded with stunning Himalayan Peaks. Deep blue sky is adding more charm in the beauty with small naughty clouds. I can hear slow rhythmic sound of river Bhagirathi. This is the only sound, which is breaking the silence of the place. I am indulging deep and deep into the spell of nature.  I am here to feel the voice of my inner, to search myself, to listen my inner sole…

 I am still in this spell when suddenly Amit comes and tell me to start trek for Tapovan, which is straight up from here. He takes me to the place from where we will start. I look upward where no any path exists. Only I can see the brown heap of mud. I confirm again but Amit says - this is the path. I place my first step on this heap and I almost shout – oh!!!  this is slippery!!!  Then I scrutinize the path intensely and find that the path is a mixture of mud and melting snow. Actually I am walking on glacier and in hot weather snow is melting and making slippery mixture with mud. Small rolling stones are making this more strenuous…

Gomukh is now leaving behind and I am moving up. Jungle has vanished and brown dry mountains have taken place in scenario. In many places, I saw deep crevasses. If anyone will slip inside these crevasses, no one can save them. These are the killer cracks. I remember what Amit told me about his friends who died in such type of crevasses in Kalinidikhal trek…

 Anyway, trek is getting tough and scorching sun is no mood of mercy. The only charm in this struggle is beautiful Himalaya and Deep blue sky with naughty clouds. I take rest for a while and then start walking again. It is too steep up and now I am struggling for every step and want to sit after every step but Amit not letting me rest. When I have trekked much then Amit told me near small water fall – You can rest here. This place is cold too. Before Amit completes his sentence I already put my rucksack down. Amit look at me with giggle and says – you may take long rest here because after this final ascend is difficult though it’s not very long…

When I sit near water I notice few black birds hovering over me. These birds are not crow. After a while birds start coming to me and trying to snatch food from my hand. This is Yellow Billed Choug bird. This is smellier to the crow but size of the bird is small and beak color is yellow. In the higher altitude they don’t get food easily so they come to humans for the search of food. Anyway I ask to Amit – Amit do you know the bird? Which bird is this? Answer he gives is the funniest answer. He innocently replied like an expert – Ma’am this is Chinese crow. In winters when china’s weather becomes cold they come here for warmth. I didn’t say anything just smile…   

After this short break I again start trekking. Though I am only few steps ahead but every step is becoming heavier. My breaths are going abnormal and I am drenched in sweat. I struggle for each step. I want to take long rest after every step. I saw upward from where Amit shouting – Madam just two more steps and you will be in Tapovan. I hear his voice and want to run but my steps are not moving. I sit down for a while and when I stand up I finish my trek in four or five steps…

 I put my last step and I was on Tapovan. I saw a huge field covered with dry yellow brown grass and huge Himalaya peaks. I sign with relief and lie down on earth. There is nothing between me and sky. Though sky has been covered by the grey clouds but still I keep watching sky and then close my eyes. I was feeling so light and relax that I fall asleep for a while…

#tapovan

#adventure

Tapovan : A Life Time Experience - Part 2

When I wake up in morning, it was chilly. I get ready for trek and come to the market where Amit is waiting for me. Market is still close so I find out a small restaurant finish breakfast there and start trekking. After a while sun come out and valley get life again. After crossing long stairs through the narrow market my trek starts with steep ascend which is not very long. Now it’s plain walk along with roaring River Bhagirathi. Huge deodar trees making valley green. Sunlight coming through the leaves and giving pleasant feel of warmth. I can see many trekkers actually devotees who are going to Gaumukh but no one is going Tapovan…

Soon we reach to Forest Office where we paid rent for our stay in jungle. They alert us not to keep any plastic material with us because it is punishable offense.  I fulfill all the formalities and went off… 

Amit is walking fast but I am walking slow and inhaling every bit of this beauty. Many tributaries are flowing through the mountains and emerging into River Bhagirathi. I reach to ramshackle wooden bridge, which is lifeline here. When I put my first step on bridge whole valley echoed with creaky voice. It is late October and I am witnessing autumn here. Tree leaves are turning yellow and red and making valley paradise. Below the path, River Bhagirathi is flowing and in front of me, great mighty Himalaya is showing its presence... 

Amit in only 24 yet and he has done many expeditions like Kamet, Mount Bhagirathi expedition, Kalindikhal Expedition and many more. He joined these expeditions as a porter. His family lives in village near Harsil and does farming. Amit support them financially by doing trekking as a porter and some time as a guide too. Really Courageous guy…

He becomes emotional when he talks about Kalindikhal Expedition. His two friends died there and their dead bodies disappeared into deep crevasse. He says with moist eyes – I don’t want to go there again and I never went there. This place is nightmare for me. I saw my two friends dying there in front of my eyes and I couldn’t do anything. He says – when my other friends go there they offer head cloth and shoes to them for their remembrance…

Bhagirathi is still with us roaring voice of Bhagirathi is echoing the valley. By now, we reach Chirbasa, a small resting point. One small shop is here but extremely expensive. One devotee family, two women, two men and a two months old baby, are going to Gaumukh to pay their votive offerings. Ladies are going by mules and men are walking. Women are wearing sari and cover their face completely. They are from Bihar. Man told me –my wife and me wished to Maa Ganga if we would have grandchild we will go to Gaumukh with baby to fulfill their votive. As they are from Bihar, which is plain and hot area so they are facing many troubles in hill. They never have been into hills before. I turn around to explore the place when I saw a man hanging on pole and doing some exercises. He dose exercises around 15 mintues. When he come down from pole I asked him why he is doing this ? he says cleaning sweat from brow – to keep body warm in this cold... and went off…   

I finish my food here, which I am carrying from Gangotri, and after this short break, I start trekking again. Amit has already left. After this break, trekking becomes strenuous. Scorching sun makes it more difficult. Due to landslide path is almost vanish and stones are falling from upward. Path becomes narrow and dangerous now. Here I saw few Blue sheep in group. They are running from one place to another to hide. River Bhagirathi is flowing with full volume and making landscape more alive. Two Nepali porters give me apple, which I wanted to buy in Harsil too. I am so glad and oblige to have them now. When I take first bite, it was so crispy and sweet…

By the time, I reach Bhojbasa, weather become strangely horrific and cold. Quick blizzard making it more horrible but luckily it stops soon but temperature is still cold. I pitch tent and put my bag inside. Bhagirathi is flowing near to my tent and from my tent window I can gaze the huge Bhagirathi Peak. Amit gets me tea from Ashram. I was drinking tea sitting into tent when suddenly I hear some voices. I come outside with curiosity where few locals are playing gully cricket in a field. I stand there to watch…

This cricket match is amazingly funny and extra ordinary. I have never seen cricket match in such funny way. There are different rules in this match, which is too unique, and the commentator is again a funny guy. He is comentrating in a hilarious way and implementing new rules in between the over according to his choice and mood. Political satires are also part of his commentary. Not only he but batsman, fielders and bowlers are equally funny. I was just laughing laughing and laughing. Two hours long this match is full of entrainment only… 

Temperature is freezing now. Amit calls me for Dinner at Ashram where everybody is coming for dinner. All sit on earth in a row and have food.  After dinner when I come to the tent, I saw huge galaxies in the sky. Sky is so clear and full of stars. I stand there for some time but cannot stand for long coz it is bone chilled cold. I enjoy this peace and beauty for a while then come to tent and sleep…

Migration Turning Uttarakhand’s Villages into Ghost Villages

As I enter into the village near Ranikhet, I was shock to see the row of abandoned houses. These houses are finely crafted and wood carving work can amaze to anyone but all has been ruined.  I haven’t’ see any, who tell me the reason why the beautiful houses are getting ramshackle?

 After one hour I saw an old lady. I ask her the reason. She says – I am 65 and living alone here. All have migrated to the plain in search of work and better life. She says – few people are also there but all are old like me…

Why they all migrated to the plain ? Can’t they get a better life here ? Why don’t they do farming ?  She replies – Farming is getting tough each day. Wild animal like monkeys, langoors, wild boars and porcupines destroy agriculture badly and we cannot do anything against them.  Leopards are another problem. No one knows when they will attack. As sun goes down village become ghostly.

She says tear in her eyes - Government says so much but not does anything for the development of villages. This is not the only village which becomes ghostly.  Other villages are also turning into ghost villages due to lack of Government policies…

Bright Himalaya was seeking my attention with his beauty but I don’t want to see the Himalaya so back from there…       

Ramshackle House 

Wood carving Door

                                                                                           Wood carving Upper part of Door

                                                                                              Wood carving Window

Pictures of Tapovan Trek (4330mt.)

I back from my Tapovan trek few days back. Tapovan is dream location for those who love adventure. Gangorti-Gaumukh-Tapovan trek along the holy river Bhagirathi takes you to the source of the river Ganga known as Gaumukh (Cow's snout). This trek is combination of adventure, mountain climbing, rock climbing and glacier traverse. The trek goes through an coniferous pine trees at Chirbasa and birch at Bhojbasa. From Bhojbasa one has to trek to Gaumukh and from Gaumukh to Tapovan traverses along the Gangotri glacier. After crossing the Gangotri glacier and traversing on a rocky face I reached to the meadows of Tapovan (meditating ground). From Tapovan views of Shivling, Bhagirathi, Meru Parvat, Kedar dome are fabulous. Herds of Bharal (Blue mountain goats) are a common sight here on mountain ridges…

 Here I am posting few pictures of my trek. Soon will write complete trek log…

Gaumukh

1,2,3 peaks of Bhagirathi 

 Bharal (Blue Mountain goat) at Tapovan

River Akash Ganga at Tapovan 

 Peak Shivling

 Meru Parvat

Peak Bhagirathi

Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 1

 I was sure that once I would go to Kedarnath Temple for its Door Opening Ceremony as in winter temple close for six months and open in summer for another six months. Opening and closing the door of temple has a big ceremony.  This time opening ceremony is on 24^th April 2015…

To add new experiences I am going via long root so I start early morning of 20^th. It’s raining since night and I went to bus stand in drizzle and storm. I went to Bhowali and now I will get bus for Chamoli, which is almost 12-13 hours journey. I was thinking I would get bus easily but after long wait I get jam packed bus. My luxury seat sit is on passenger’s suitcase. Bus move little forward when driver stop and says– I cannot drive coz bus has been air lock. Driver and mechanic did best effort but result is zero. Conductor said – take other bus. I tell him – you should arrange bus for us? He has no reply and I have no time so I took bag pack and move off. After half-n-hour, I get bus till Dwarahaat. Now this journey is going to be adventures. In packed bus, I get luxury seat near engine, which is burning like fireplace... 

Women sitting in front seats are going Ranikhet to attend marriage. One of them is showing her gold jewelry and gaudy Sari to her friends and says – my husband bought for marriage. Until Ranikhet she talk nonstop. In Ranikhet When they off I had two reasons to get happy. First, I got seat second, I get rid of their talks. This is I called luxury. Due to road construction work, bus trapped in traffic for 2 hours in places where no beautiful scenario no greenery. Fume of charcoal, hovering dust and scorching temperature making this place more tiresome.  Men are out and women engage in nonstop chattering. I reach Dwarahaat next 2 hours. Dwarahaat is a small but historical place, which is famous for numerous natural water recourses which locally known as Naula. I saw some beautifully designed Naula and temples from bus. However, many of them have been destroyed now told me by shopkeeper whom I ask bus for Chamoli…

 After 20 minutes, I get bus. No doubt big relief for me. Atleast now I will reach my destination. Scenario has changed dramatically.  All become green with balance temperature. I can see huge paddy fields but mostly paddy crops have been destroy by untimely heavy rain. I am indulging in it but suddenly driver announces that he will go to Gairsain not Chamoli. I ask him with shock – why not you are going Chamoli when all passengers have to go to Chamoli ? Four other passengers also accompany me but driver is irritating character. He is not listening any of us. No idea what will come next? This journey is full of shocks and surprises. I again indulge in ribbon like River Ramganga and vast valley. Road is going between this vast valley. I can see women cutting crops, Children catching fish, Men working in shops.  In one stoppage newly married couple came into bus. Seems groom is going to bride’s house first time. He stops bus in shop and when he back his hands were full with sweet boxes and bride’s face delighting. Both are chatting loudly in their regional dialect…

It is dark, cold and vast valley has vanished. Through a narrow road, I reach Gairsain. Driver drop us and went off. This is disgusting. I am alone in this unknown place. Same time an old couple come with their son and asks if I am I going to Chamoli? I shake my head in yes. Old man advised for taxi. I agreed but taxi guy ask for double charges.  I decide to stay here so inquire for hotel in station shop. Who told me I could get hotel in market. I entered into market and went into first hotel I saw. Room is absolutely nonsense but I don’t want to go anywhere else so I hire room without any argument and went for dinner. I am tired I am hungry I am sleepy and badly exhausted by this adventures journey. After finish decent dinner, I back to room through the road, which is full with dirt and garbage. I lie down. Middle in the night I heard bike horn seems young guys doing bike stunts on road which goes till half n hour…

 Morning 4.30. I came out.  Except street dogs, all are in lap of deep silence. Around 5 I came to road. Few morning walkers appeared on road and sound of vehicle break the silence. Now I will straight go to Rudraprayg. From station I take a look to the town. After 15 minutes, I get bus and good seat both. I hope today my journey would be more comfortable and less shocking. Gairsian is beautiful and People should take market clean. Anyways it is cold and green is all over…

 Continue…