Thursday, 25 September 2014
Friday, 12 September 2014
Thursday, 21 August 2014
When I was In Jim Corbett National Park – Part 3
Soon I reached another
trail which is going to Garjiya Devi Temple. Though road is rough but bikes are
running in full speed. Below road crystal clear river Koshi flowing peacefully.
I come across with narrow iron suspension bridge looking stunning in verdant
valley. After crossing it jungle trail start and path become narrower. Jungle
is buzzing with the sounds of many birds. Weather is warm, few devotees coming
from temple and some youngsters enjoying swimming in river. Far behind this I
can see huge cement constructed bridge. Soon I glimpse Garjiya Devi temple on
the top of peak with blue sky backdrop. I cross few small temples and a rickety
wood bridge to reach temple side. Extensive part of river is filled with sand. On
this spongy sand mattress I walk for long and reached to makeshift shops area
which exist when river go down and sand acquire the entire river bank. All shop
keepers selling paraphernalia for worship. As it’s Diwali so hustle is bit
more. Ignoring all I went to restaurant to satisfy my hunger cells but I only
could get maggi and tea. Long strait stairs are going up to temple seems like going
to moon where a priest chanting mantras sitting inside small shrine and few
devotees have circled him. Temples’ walls painted with slogans written by
devotees. I am amazed to see that people don’t stop here too. They don’t want
to do anything for their self but want to god. Railing is tied with small red
clothes…
I back to makeshift
market where sellers wants me to buy something. Meanwhile I saw a young guy
around 24-25 hanging camera on shoulder and roaming around. His curly long hairs
tied in pony, white shirt black pant make him attractive. I went him to talk - are you photographer ? Yes – he reply gazing
my camera. What photography you do ? Marriage photography and in off season I
come to place like this and do photography for people. I know you don’t want me
to take your picture coz you yourself carrying a big camera. He still
gazing my camera. Did you ever try
photography for competition ? No ! never I could not get this opportunity because
I have to earn money for my family. I saw disappointment on his eyes which
are busying hunting people who want them photograph. I left him with his hunt and
moved on to other side of market which is not makeshift but interesting…
I crossed huge cement
bridge which is only source when water gets up in rain time. Many characters are
moving here. I sit in a corner and start observing. Devotees come to make wish.
Besides them some baggers, some sellers, some saints and may be some should be
like me who have no particular reason for being here. Market filled with colorful
imitating items and worship items but apart from these I found few unusual
things like one seller has a mobile restaurant handcart. He had made hearth on it.
Good idea - I said. He smiled and
said - I save fuel and serving healthy
food to customers. Do you know fuel is an expensive option nowadays? Don’t
understand whether he was asking or saying but anyways I took his picture and
went off…
I moved towards a saint
who busying chanting mantras in alone and looking down continuously as he is in
deep thought. He start saying – I was
child when I left home and took sanyas. I roamed into many places and spent
long time in Himalaya. I still don’t like staying in one place for long time
but now I become old can’t walk and also can’t tolerate cold. He shows me
his hands and legs which were badly swelled. I left him with his loneliness and
back. I am still ignoring sellers but one sweet little girl came and ask me to
buy something. Her sweet and innocent voice made me buy something from her and then
back to bridge again where few young guys were preparing for water games. Good
to know that they doing it professionally and creating self job opportunity. I spend
little time with these guys…
I want to ride in open
jeep so went to jungle safari though I couldn’t found anything special in
jungle but weather is pleasant so the ride of 3-4 hours is enjoyable. When I
turned it was dark but due to Diwali all market and houses were lighting with
Diyas and Deepmala. In night I roamed into village where everyone enjoying
festival creaking crackers but sound is not loud which could hit eardrums
badly. I was gazing into houses as well. Almost everyone welcomed me and also
alerting me from crackers. It’s a chance that I meet that girl again whom I
meat last evening. She invited me at her house…
Her father, mother and
uncle came to welcome me and said - our
house is not big and this year we could not earn enough money so we are not
celebrating festival lavishly. Her younger brother and sister want me to
crack crackers with them which they bought from their savings. After this woman
offered me Roti-Sabji for dinner – it’s
too simple but we have only this to offer you – Said unhappily. Though I
don’t want to eat but the way she offered me I couldn’t refuse. After dinner
girl came to me and said with her shy full smile - I want to learn dance but my father has no money to send me dance
collage. Can you give me any idea how can I learn dance without money ? She looked me with hope but I know I will disappoint
her so I concentrate watching her house rather than her problem. I back to my
tent after. It was cold and windy night. Roaring sound of river and wind
breaking the silence…
Morning is bone
chilled cold but I have to back so no option to curl up into quilt again. I
went to river spent some time in silence. Blue water flows over my feet making
them wet and cold. Little water birds are flying and chirping. Few sand diggers
digging sand from bank and transporting it on mules. I become part of
everything happening here. After this quality time I back, finished breakfast
and went to see Tiger Reserve Museum Dhangarhi…
Where I meat Ram Singh
the museum peon. He said – I have seen
tigers many times and he attacked me also. Once he attacked to my friend badly.
He injured for long time and then died. Our life is in high risk. If tiger come
in front we are not even able to protect our self. No one can get rid of his
huge jaws. Once tiger attacked a village woman who went jungle for grass. She wounded
badly and could not survive. One of my co-worker had been faced tiger 5-6 times
and at last he died to fight with tiger. His wrinkled face becomes more
wrinkled and gloomy. We don’t have any protection
- he said with dull face and then he told me one more story - Once a man going on his bike, tiger jumped
on him from bushes and dragged his body inside jungle. After three four hours when
his body found it was badly injured…
I spent time listen his
bravery stories. Now I am no more interested to see museum. As I had no vehicle
so my plan is to walk till bus stand. He advised me it’s unsafe area so better
to wait for vehicle. I took his advice and wait for vehicle. Weather is
pleasant, jungle echoing with birds chirping and for my good fortune I took
lift in share taxi till bus stand. Bus stand is in complete mess. No one is
there to tell me about bus but meanwhile I got bus till Haldwani. On the way at
barrage I saw group of Rudy Shelduck bird also known as Surkhab. I got time to
take few clicks of them. From Haldwani I got another bus for Nainital…
End...
Wednesday, 18 June 2014
When I was In Jim Corbett National Park – Part 2
I enter into Mahesh boundary
where his family is doing household works. Mahesh introduce me to his mother and
two sisters Geeta and Savita. Both girls
takes me into newly made cement house. Room is decorated with artificial
decorative plastic flowers and garlands. Room is illuminating with CFL light. Two
beds are in two corners and one table and chair is taking place in another
corner. One remaining corner is engaged with small TV. As I took place in chair
Geeta went to make tea and Savita remain there. Savita is pretty talkative and
want to know about my work and why I am here in festival time ? I answered all
her questions and just ask to start conversation with her - You have cable here ? She flicker her
eyes and says - Yes ! But this is Tata
Sky. She is going to open TV but
before that I ask one more question - You
don’t go to collect water ? She reply standing in front of TV - No ! I don’t coz I have lots of work to do
in home and field. Like prepare food, take care of cattle, feed them, cut
fodder for them and so many.
She keep on saying - Me and my sister both go to school and studying in 12th class. Our school is nearby. Though we are satisfied with our school and teachers but after school I would have to go out for higher studies. I want to study bio chemistry and work coz farming is very expensive and some time it becomes risky also. As you know elephants are big nuisance here. They come in group and destroy our agriculture badly. We don’t get any help from government for this loss so nobody wants to do agriculture. Everyone is interested to sell their land to hoteliers, who are building huge hotels and resorts to make money.
She keep on saying - Me and my sister both go to school and studying in 12th class. Our school is nearby. Though we are satisfied with our school and teachers but after school I would have to go out for higher studies. I want to study bio chemistry and work coz farming is very expensive and some time it becomes risky also. As you know elephants are big nuisance here. They come in group and destroy our agriculture badly. We don’t get any help from government for this loss so nobody wants to do agriculture. Everyone is interested to sell their land to hoteliers, who are building huge hotels and resorts to make money.
She is talking nonstop but meanwhile Geeta and
Mahesh both enter, Geeta arrange table in front of me and put cup of tea. It is
suffocating inside so I come out in verandah in cool breeze. Opposite verandah there
is beautifully architect mud hut. Sawita said – We like staying in hut because this is natural air conditioner. It
becomes hot in winters and cool in summers. Sipping tea I asked – Then why you made this cement house ?
Both girls looked each other strangely and then Geeta reply – In village everyone making new style house
now so we also made this. Mahesh is silently listing and moving his head in
yes or no sign.
It’s getting dark so I
thank them for tea and move back to my room. Now it is cold, windy and dark.
But I went to compound next to my tent where I saw big elephant. 19-20 years
old guy, wearing jean and striped shirt, giving sugarcane too poor creature. He
calls me up there and says – Her name is
Ladli and I am her Mahout. Ladli is such a lovely name I think and asks – is she yours ? – No ! I am caretaker only. Owner lives in Rampur and comes to collect
money which she earns from safari. Money !!! Safari !!! She earns!!! I was
confused. He clears – Everyday she go 5-6 times for elephant safari and for
each safari she get 2500 rupees. Poor Ladli busy chewing sugarcane and staring
me through her small eyes. How much she
eat in a day ? I want to know. 40-45
kg. sugarcane and you know she is 45 years old from Rampur – Mahout replied
give sugarcane to Ladli…
Sad to know about
Ladli. She should have free in jungle but working like slave here. Mahout is
also from Rampur and living here with his family. All in his family do the same
work. Her mother lit wick lamp inside house and says – we don’t get much for our hardwork but what to do. We also have to
survive. I am listing her but my interest is in Ladli who is taking and
breaking sugarcane. Mahout ask me – would you
like to cross between her leg ? I was again puzzled so I ask – why ? He said – it is lucky, your all wish will come true. Though I don’t trust in
these superstitious but want to experience so I crossed between her legs. Not
to say it is an amazing experience. I left Ladli and back to my tent…
Night was cold. I could
hear perpetual sound of river in silence.
Next morning I woke up by 6 but it was dark, cold, and windy so I went
into bed again. Around 7 I came out took
tea and went to Garjiya Devi Temple by walk which is almost 6 km…
It is chilly but pleasant
walk which I am enjoying however vehicles moving abruptly on road are making
walk spoil. Soon I reached a place from where one trail going up in jungle. I
follow the trail and went upward. After little walk I saw a board showing one
ancient temple is in distance of 300 meter but I walked much more than 300
meter between jungle. Anyhow with lots of turns and bends I reached in temple.
It is ancient but reconstruction work has snatched out its ancient look…
I met a saint wearing saffron
loincloth and head cover with light saffron scarf. On his copper color face his
white beard is shining and falling on his chest. I greet him. He also greets me
and calls me to sit in front of hearth where some other items are also taking
place. Perhaps this is his kitchen. He told me moving to sunny area – I live here alone. Villagers come here and
they give me food and other stuff to survive. I don’t go anywhere. He is
busy in mixing tobacco and marijuana on his palm and talking to me also – I saw tigers many times. They often come
to the temple but Shiva’s blessings are with me so I don’t scare. They
basically don’t attack if you won’t hurt them. Now he starts filling
mixture into cigarette and says - This
area is chilled in winter but in summer it is pleasant here. He asked me
then – Have you seen any village upside ?
And without waiting reply he told – Its
only jungle upside. Village could be seen only in downside area. This is the
reason this jungle is still very rich. He has finished his work and looking
for match box which I gave him. He lit cigarette and said – Now temple is under archaeological
department who are renovating it. He keeps silent and takes long puff of
cigarette. Smoke hovered on both of us. I left him with his enjoyable moment
and roam around temple…
This is god Shiva
temple. One Shivlinga is in center of temple and many other ancient statues are
outside for renovating work. I see towards saint who is still enjoying long
puff of cigarette. I back to him and say goodbye. He smiled at me and return
match box which I offer him and back. He told me shortcut route which is going
to road. I crossed a stream and reached to road. Now shops have been open and
bustle starting. Here I noticed that everything is on the name of CORBETT like
Corbett Chicken Shop, Corbett Hair Saloon, Corbett Tailors and many hotels
also…
Continued…
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