Monday, 22 June 2015
Monday, 15 June 2015
Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 4
Morning
I wake up early but there are no signs of life so I went inside again. After 1
hour when I back helicopters carrying urgent supplies have started hovering
simultaneously on clear blue sky. I went to temple. Decoration is still going on.
I sit in front of temple verandah and watch everybody working. One policeman
come and says – I am working here since last 3 months. He describes me the same
scenario, which already many have told me. I
was here when that tragedy happens. What an atrocious time, luckily I remain safe.
I sit there for long watching up above Himalayan peaks, sky, clouds and working
people. Far from temple, River Mandakini is flowing slowly with sweet whisper. Religious
songs are echoing in valley. I returns for lunch and came to know that procession
of Lord Shiva could be reach anytime. Guy who serves me lunch tells me – Madam local village people and other pilgrims
will be come with procession then you would be no more alone. I give him
smile and concentrate on delicious lunch. When I back to tent site, I could see
lots of hustle bustle there. No need to say that security personal and journalists
has started coming now. Meanwhile procession also reached with array of pilgrims.
I saw few women too so now nobody would say I am the only woman here. Anyways they
are dancing, singing and enjoying the moment a lot. Now I am also part of procession
with my camera…
Temple
is now a chaotic place. 3-4 hours later, everything becomes silent. I also back
to tent where five members of very
reserve Maharashtrian family, one old man, three guys and one more trekking
loving man are accompany me today. Trekking loving man and three boys introduce
themselves to me. Old man, sort of talkative, shares his adventures stories
nonstop. One of three boys tells me – my neighbor’s
family was here in that fled flesh and they lost. Their family still waits for
them. Can you imagine how difficult it is to believe that their family has been
lost. I can feel the pain coz I see them hysterically waiting for family.
His eyes fill with tears and mine too so I walk out. It’s drizzling and
temperature is going down. I can see bustle everywhere. Spending sometime
outside, I back to tent where without waiting for anything man starts again with
his adventures stories. It was dark so we went for dinner. We had to wait in a
long queue for dinner and now I am sharing my dinner with lots of moths flying
over lights. I back to tent and lie down…
Suddenly I saw saint sitting on snow cover roof far
from this chaos and enjoying Hukka (Smoke). Meanwhile queue amalgamate into mismanage
mob. Temple premise is echoing with prayers enchanting by pilgrims. Around 8.58
Door Opens. VVIP’s take first Darshan and went off. Now it’s others turn and all
want to go first so no one is following line and I stuck between mob. I am struggling to come out but now there is
no point to back so I flow in this huge ocean. Somebody push me from behind and
I hit with long stone stairs. Crossing stairs I entered into big room carved
with ancient statues of god and goddess but its dark, smoky and jam packed with
pilgrims. I am struggling to keep my steps forward. Most of the time I was not
moving but I been pushed forward through mob. Anyhow, after 1 hour struggle I reach
to the holy serene of Lord Shiva. Now I can say I have completed my trek successfully
though going out is another struggle…
After lots of struggle, I came out and stand for a
while to take a look to the temple, chaos, snow, peaks, sky, workers and
everything then back to tent. I will back through Helicopter where again it was
long wait due to VVIP’s movements. Atlast I get Helicopter, which will drop me Fata
village. I am too late so worrying for bus to Haridwar coz I don’t want to go
by same root which I took for arrival. It’s 1.15 and after half n hour I get
taxi for Guptakshi and from Guptkashi to Rudrprayag. It’s 4 O’clock now but
luckily I get another taxi for Rishikesh which is near to Haridwar. Now I can
enjoy the beauty of valley but wishing to reach soon. Around 10 P.M. I reach
Rishikesh and take bus for Haridwar. It’s been 11 P.M. but my luck favor me again
and get bus for Nainital.
I been part of one devastating story, which is still
scaring me, but when I back to Nainital I open news channel to keep myself
update but heard one more heartbreaking news about Nepal Earthquake…
End
Monday, 8 June 2015
Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 3
I wake
up early in cold morning for trek. Today I have to trek tough 16 km. Labors and
remain catastrophe marks and River Mandakini is again my company. This area was
badly damage in 2013 fled flesh. Old root is history now and new root is in opposite
direction. Labors are amusing to see me walking alone and some wants me to take
their pictures. Public toilets and
drinking water has arranged here. After walking almost 4 km I get a small teashop.
Still it’s very cold and sun is nowhere. I ask to shopkeeper about this season –
Hoping tourist will come now. Last year
only few tourists came. Conditions were also in mess but this year conditions
are much better. He says making tea - my
shop was also damaged which I reestablish again. When I came here first time, I
was stunned thrilled and scared to see dead bodies all over. He then asks
about myself and says - you are the only
girl whom I am looking going upside alone…
After
short break, I move again. Birds’ sounds are echoing in this wilderness. Huge waterfalls are suddenly existing on the way which is refreshing mood. After crossing
a band magnificent view of Himalayan peaks Meru-Sumeru surprised me. I stop for
a while and glair Himalaya and its hugeness. I reach Rambada after 2-3 hours
walk which was dangerously vanished in 2013 fled flesh. Snow is all over in Rambara
and gang of labors clearing snow welcomes me. I cross narrow road between snow.
Leader of labors tell me that he is here from one month and has been clear tons
of snow. He shows me few glaciers, which slipped and shift onto road…
From
Rambada trek become steep up with snow all around. I cross one steep ascend and
meet another gang of labor clearing snow. They invite me to have tea. I am
tired so I accept invitation. They offer lukewarm water and black tea. This
gang is working since 3 months. Raj Bahdur says - When I came here, area was dump under the snow. We worked hard to clear
snow but unfortunately whole day we cleared snow and in night, it became snow
again. Now weather is much better though still lots of snow. I ask him
about Monal bird, which found in this region. He screams and says – I saw this bird often on land. We call it
Monali. I can show you right now if you come with me. I follow him and for
my surprise, he shows me Monal, a big blue bright bird. I sight Moanl first
time here…
After
this surprise treat I move off. Snow is increasing in every step and I have to
walk between huge snow walls. Luckily, temperature is good for walking. I can
see Pink and white Rhododendron tress on the way. When I reached Lincholi, one
more stoppage, some government officers stop me to check my Biometric Card.
They also ask me the same questions, which I have answered many times before.
They tell me I am the only female who is going to Kedar…
After
Lincholi 7 km. strenuous trek remain. Steep ascend and with both side towering
snow walls. If in any case walls shift a bit I will press below the tons of
snow. Where its not possible to clear snow they made stairs on snow which gives
feel like going to touch the sky. Stunning scenario is only factor, which is
keeping all problems easy. Deep blue-sky, small clouds, lovely view of Himalaya,
snow is all over like film story. But in this extreme conditions labors are working
hard without any basic facilities. They don’t have good shoes. They don’t have
good clothes. They don’t have good equipment too but they have big smile on
their faces which is making me smile too. For me they are the real heroes…
By the
time I reach Kedarnath it was cold, cloudy, windy and snowing. I went to Tent site
and book tent. I dumps sack and went to temple, which is 1 km. All including debris of buildings divested by
fled flesh is under the snow sheet. Huge machines and thousands of workers,
working hard to make this place energetic. Officers’ quarters and other public
facilities all are available here. I saw temple from far away. Once temple was invisible because of shops
and other buildings covered it from front but now view is clear – Labor
working here tells me from behind. He again says - Behind the temple, there was a complete town but fled flesh washed away
everything. Now people should aware of their limits otherwise nature won’t wait
to teach them another lesson. I shake my head in agreeing position and move
near to temple…
Temple
is decorating with flowers and garlands for tomorrow s’ big day. Surrounding of
temple is still cover under snow. Weather turns horrifically so workers working
here call me in there shelter for tea. I went inside sit there with glass of
tea. Workers are still working in this awful weather. Their cloths have been
wet but without any complaints, they are working nonstop. Keep them active they
are making fun with each other and enjoying these harsh conditions. Due to snow
and cold winds temperature drop quickly. Worker tells me – Don’t worry madam! Sky will get clear by the evening and morning sun
would be sharp like today. I trust on him afterall he is working here since
last three months. I enjoy their company and learn how to stay happy in weird
conditions. After spending lovely moments with them, I back to my tent. I am
alone in this 100 or more tent’s colony but they provide light through solar
power so not scary. Around 7 P.M. I went for dinner. Kitchen team serves delicious
food with delightful manner. I am delighted. Around 8 P.M. snow stops and sky
get clear as that guy told me…
Continue…
Monday, 1 June 2015
Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 2
Bus is
going upward through a narrow road between thick jungle. On the way, I saw few parts of huge and
historical Chandrapurgadi King’s palace. Many small settlements coming on the
way and temperature are still down. Adi Badri is another settlement, which is
famous for historical and ancient temple. It’s chilly here. Passenger sitting
next to me says - This is coldest area.
Only few days ago it was a snowfall here. Soon bus reaches Karnprayag, which
is confluence of River Bhagirathi and River Alaknanda. River Alaknanda is vast and huge rapid’s
river…
Karnpryag
is pilgrim city. Old Karnprayag has remained sign of traditional time like traditional market, traditional house, traditional roads but New Karnprayg is combo of concrete jungle and bursting traffic. Through the beautiful and warm road bus reach
Rudraprayag in 2 hours and I walk 1 km. for bus station. After finishing lunch,
I get share taxi for Vishnuprayag. 70 years Wrinkle faced, baldhead man sitting
next to me. He start saying– I come here every
year for door opening ceremony. I want to know about devastating fled flesh
year 2013. He says – I was not here but
my known family was witnessed that. Road going along with river Alaknanda
and I can see the fled marks, which are showing velocity and volume of fled. All
huge constructions near to river have been vanished and river level came up because
of silt. I reach Vishnuprayag in 3 hours. Here it’s drizzling, which is
increasing wrinkles on my face. Here again I ask bus for Gaurikud. Vishnuprayag
is main Pilgrimage city but locals are not seeing excited. I go to teashop and
wait for taxi. Teashop guy tells me – we
are not yet interested in pilgrimage but let see how it goes in May and June…
I get
bus for Saptakund after long wait. Shanta is my co passenger. I ask her – why not locals are showing interest in pilgrimage
? She replies adjusting her bag – all are still in trauma of 2013 fled flesh. We
are still struggling for our lives. Many families have lost everything in fled.
Many people are still lost. Houses, lands, and shops everything has destroyed
badly. However, Government gave some relief but that was not enough to
reestablish. Light drizzle makes people terrified though they are recovering
but it will take time. Her voice
start trembling and she keeps silence. I also left her with her silence…
I
would have to walk 6 km from Saptkund to Gaurikund but police officer stops me
to go due to security and safety reasons. When I explain I am journalist he let
me go but before leave, I had to make biometric card. Meanwhile procession of goddess
comes from village, which will also move to Kedarnath on 23rd. I start walking and now River Mandakini and
labors, working on road, are accompanying me. Though Mandakini is very calm and
slow river but that fled night river become horrible. One labor says –Human bodies, animal bodies, cars, buses,
mud & stones were flowing in water. River changed the direction and swallow
whatever and whoever come in front of her way. Awful scenario. I even don’t want to talk
about it. Don’t Know how many bodies are beneath this road. He back to his
work and I starts walk…
Huge
JBC machines and workers are working hard to make journey possible. Walking
along with river, I reach Gaurikund in 2.30 hours. Crashed buildings debris welcomes
me here. I can visualize where would have been water level that day. Apart from
these, Gaurikund amazed me because I was thinking here I will get pile of
debris only and would have to spend night in tent but 15-16 year old boy surprise
me to ask if I want hotel. Hotel room astonish me again coz room is decorated
with double bed, one table, two chairs, TV in corner and charging plugs.
Bathroom is also clean and comfortable. Just opposite from Gairsain hotel. I
take bath with hot water, which needed badly. After getting fresh, I went to Goddess
Gauri Temple. Temple is anciently architect with white walls, blue wooden windows
and doors…
Around
6 P.M. I reach temple where priest has start worship. Ringing bells echoing
inside tiny dark room and aroma of sandal is all over. Priest has oil lamp in
his hand which he moving circularly. This went till 20 minutes and then priest
gives me flower petals as blessings. I
went to tea-shop where 19-20 years old guy welcomes me. He serves tea and says - you are only girl whom I am looking here in
this season. Are you alone ? You are not scarring here alone? Reply his
questions I ask him – are you here that fled
night ? No. I was not here but when I back, I was shocked to see everything.
Debris was all over. My shop had damaged and filled with silt and three dead
bodies. It was difficult for me to clean everything. Bodies spoiled badly so
not able to recognize them and who are alive, was surviving for the life coz
nothing remain to eat. We get food from village to help them as much as possible
but our village was also suffering from shortage of food and government was
nowhere to help us…
Heartbreaking
stories are coming one by one. I back to hotel and sit in verandah till late
night. I am still thinking about moments, which made Kedarnath into a ghostly
place. Suddenly sounds of new film songs hit my eardrums. I saw men and women
are dancing and enjoying a marriage party. This brings me back into life. It
feels good that people are enjoying their life in this ghostly place. Suddenly
I feel hunger coz I haven’t eat anything since morning. After dinner, I back to
room and lie down…
Continue…
Monday, 25 May 2015
Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 1
I was sure
that once I would go to Kedarnath Temple for its Door Opening Ceremony as in
winter temple close for six months and open in summer for another six months.
Opening and closing the door of temple has a big ceremony. This time opening ceremony is on 24th
April 2015…
To add
new experiences I am going via long root so I start early morning of 20th.
It’s raining since night and I went to bus stand in drizzle and storm. I went to
Bhowali and now I will get bus for Chamoli, which is almost 12-13 hours journey.
I was thinking I would get bus easily but after long wait I get jam packed bus.
My luxury seat sit is on passenger’s suitcase. Bus move little forward when driver
stop and says– I cannot drive coz bus has
been air lock. Driver and mechanic did best effort but result is zero. Conductor
said – take other bus. I tell him – you should arrange bus for us? He has
no reply and I have no time so I took bag pack and move off. After half-n-hour,
I get bus till Dwarahaat. Now this journey is going to be adventures. In packed
bus, I get luxury seat near engine, which is burning like fireplace...
Women sitting in front seats are going Ranikhet to attend marriage. One of them is showing
her gold jewelry and gaudy Sari to her friends and says – my husband bought for marriage. Until Ranikhet she talk nonstop. In
Ranikhet When they off I had two reasons to get happy. First, I got seat second,
I get rid of their talks. This is I called luxury. Due to road construction
work, bus trapped in traffic for 2 hours in places where no beautiful scenario
no greenery. Fume of charcoal, hovering dust and scorching temperature making
this place more tiresome. Men are out and
women engage in nonstop chattering. I reach Dwarahaat next 2 hours. Dwarahaat
is a small but historical place, which is famous for numerous natural water
recourses which locally known as Naula.
I saw some beautifully designed Naula and temples from bus. However, many of
them have been destroyed now told me by shopkeeper whom I ask bus for Chamoli…
It is dark,
cold and vast valley has vanished. Through a narrow road, I reach Gairsain.
Driver drop us and went off. This is disgusting. I am alone in this unknown
place. Same time an old couple come with their son and asks if I am I going to
Chamoli? I shake my head in yes. Old man advised for taxi. I agreed but taxi
guy ask for double charges. I decide to
stay here so inquire for hotel in station shop. Who told me I could get hotel
in market. I entered into market and went into first hotel I saw. Room is
absolutely nonsense but I don’t want to go anywhere else so I hire room without
any argument and went for dinner. I am tired I am hungry I am sleepy and badly
exhausted by this adventures journey. After finish decent dinner, I back to
room through the road, which is full with dirt and garbage. I lie down. Middle
in the night I heard bike horn seems young guys doing bike stunts on road which
goes till half n hour…
Morning 4.30. I came out. Except street dogs, all are in lap of deep
silence. Around 5 I came to road. Few morning walkers appeared on road and sound
of vehicle break the silence. Now I will straight go to Rudraprayg. From station
I take a look to the town. After 15 minutes, I get bus and good seat both. I hope today my journey would be more comfortable and less shocking. Gairsian is beautiful
and People should take market clean. Anyways it is cold and green is all over…
Monday, 11 May 2015
Winter Deo Tibba (6001 meter) Expedition – Part 3
Morning Mahesh Bhai wake up me with cup of tea. After finishing tea I came
out it’s still cold and shivering. I went to fire finish breakfast and get
ready to trek. Today trek is going to be long and tough. Me and Monty start
together but soon he went away from me so I become alone again. Though it’s
sunny day but rays are on mountain only valley is struggling for it. As I move
up sun come close and become warm and comfortable. Trek is steep upward and
rocky which is making it more strenuous. Jagtsuk River is flowing below but in
most places it has been frozen…
Monty is top on the ridge when I will reach there he will start again. I am
walking with my pace and enjoying silence. After 2 hours walk when I reach to
Monty he said – This is good place for rest.
I drink water from small creek flowing there. I deeply watch the design of
mountains and stones. I found that they resemble with snakes. I ask to Monty. He
replies in his low voice – You are right.
This whole area is dedicated to snakes and snakes are main deity. Though, I
haven’t seen any living snakes here. I want to know story behind this but Monty
could not tell me and keep silent…
We start again. Trek is becoming tough coz ascend is getting steep and
rocky. As Monty is far from me so I miss the trek 2-3 times but luckily find
right direction. Weather is now hot and I can hear the roaring voice of Jagatsuk
River which is breaking my silence. Anyways after 2 hrs steep ascend time for
to rest and Monty is waiting for me at rest point. He said – Take short break after
this trek is going very tough. Monty again becomes quite and I also indulge in beauty
of valley with roaring sound of Jagatsuk…
After crossing one steep ascend everything changed. Here it’s no sun and it
becomes bone chilled cold. Trek root is covering with snow. Jagatusk River and
waterfalls are also frozen. I am shivering but sun is on the top of mountains.
I trek almost two hours then reach to camp site…
I wrap myself into sleeping bag. Mahesh Bhai gives me tea and maggi which
is big treat this time. In evening bare mountains and snow peaks turns into
red. In few part or river where water is not frozen I can see the reflection of
snow clad peaks. I wish I could spend more time watching these serene beauty
but chilly winds are not in mood to allowing me this pleasure. I click few
pictures and curl up in tent again. Soon I finish my dinner and went to sleep…
Morning it was cloudy all over. Seems it could be snow which is not good
and safe for us. Me, Monty and Mahesh Bhai decide that we will wait for clear
sky then only we will go further. It is more chilly and windy then yesterday.
Jagatusk River has been completely frozen. There is no sign of flowing water. I
roam around for warm up but sky is still not clear…
Around 10 AM sky gives us few sign of relaxation and so we move to base
camp one. When I walk forward I saw I big pond which has been frozen and
shining like thick glass. I went on it and start running. Monty and Mahesh Bhai
also join me and we have a great fun which gave us little relief from weather.
Crossing pond, field and jagatsuk now the real trek start which is in 90 degree
ascend with full of snow. We are using snow shoes, crampon and ice axe. Though
sky blue but full of chips sort of small clouds…
Monty is again walking before so I am walking alone. Clouds are giving
beautiful landscapes but threatening too. Ascend is exhausting with almost 4000
meter altitude. We take rest in two places. Valley is looking combo of white
and brown from upward. Anyways after one steeper ascend we reached to base
camp. Weather becomes cloudier, chilled and snowy. Jagatsuk River is look like
white ribbon which is going from one end to another. This is reminding me my
Chadar Trek in Leh so I walk on it. All is cover under the white blanket and
sky turns into deep gray. After some more fun we move to base camp one which is
long but plain walk…
When we reach base camp one it’s horribly cold and windy. Temperature is
minus in day time. Clouds are getting thick, dark and scary. Cooking is not possible
so we eat chocolate and maggi. In night me, Monty, Mahesh Bhai and helper
Harish decide to stay in one kitchen tent. Middle of the night I heard whisper
on tent roof. It was hailstone outside. We are in big danger now…
We are waiting for morning. Hailstorms stops after 1 hour and it is snowing
slowly. Scenario has been changed by morning. Our tent was covered with snow
and still weather is not good. Yesterday we decided to locate the position to
fix rope but now it is not at all possible. As a trek leader Monty decide that
we are not going to summit and we will go back and cover complete trek in one
day…
I have nothing to argue so I carry my sack look at the Deo Tibba Peak with
wet eyes and turn back. I am not happy but satisfied that it was not my fault
if weather is not in our favor. Trekking down is now more risky and chilly. It
became warm when we reach our first camp site but Deo Tibba Peak is still
covered with clouds. Anyways after reaching Jagatsuk Village we call the taxi
and back to Manali…
End
Thursday, 30 April 2015
Winter Deo Tibba (6001 meter) Expedition – Part 2
Next morning I went to Manali’s very famous and divine Hidimba Devi temple
which is around 2 km. This is four storied, Pagoda style roof temple. Wall and
doorway is covered with colourful figures and symbols. Though it is early and
cold morning but hustle bustle has start. I walk on road going upward between deodar
trees. Many huge hotels and buildings are here but all are not really engage…
After half an hour I reach to temple where morning rituals are going on. Devotees
are standing outside the temple. Drums are blowing in high pitch and bells are
ringing continuously. I join them and become part of it. Ritual over after 15
or 20 minutes and now we can go inside. Inside it’s dark and smoky. Only oil
lamp is lighting there. Temple has no goddess idol. There are engraved
footprints which worship by the devotees. I also prey and priest gives me few
dry flower petals as blesses. I come out and stroll in temple campus then went
to Old Manali…
I cross Manalsu River bridge and reach to another world. I am walking upward
through a narrow road which is dividing Old Manali into upper side and lower
side. Mostly shops and restaurants are still not open. Old Manali is absolutely
a different world. This place is combination of new and old both. Here I can
see ancient life along with new age technology and luxury. I can see traditional
wood houses mostly have cattle house and farming land. I see an old man making
iron tool with old traditional way. I stop to see him and then move...
Apart of all this I can see new style of restaurant, café house, massage
parlor with wi-fi facility. I went to a café house which has wi-fi facility.
From the window of café house I could see a family wearing traditional dress
going somewhere with their Yaak, Yaak is very useful animal…
After having delicious coffee I move unto Manu Temple. On the name of Saint
Manu Manali got his name. Few kids are playing here accept this all is calm and
quite. I sit here for a while and then back. Road is still silence. Few locals
are moving and few shops have been open. This place is like fairy land. I can
see new and ancient both times together. Mostly houses are like guest houses.
They serve all the comfort along with their tradition and culture. Though I
don’t want to but I cross the same bridge and back to my world…
In Manali life has begun people enjoying group chatting in sun. I take walk
on mall road and back. Before start trekking we went to a shop to rent out some
climbing equipment like crampons, ice shoes, ice axe, strings etc etc. After
finishing all the work we drive till Jagatsuk village which is almost 10 km
from Manali. Weather is clear so the scenario of valley is beautiful. As we
went up road become narrower and driving become tedious. We stop at Hydraulic
power station from where trek would start…
First day trek is easy and short. I have
to trek only 5-6 hours. I hang my rucksack and starts trekking. Monty, trek
guide, is with me. When I move upward, valley become more beautiful. It’s not
steep ascend so I enjoy walking. As Monty is far from me so I walk alone which
I love a lot. After 3 hours walk I reach a point where Monty is waiting for me
and said – You can rest here for a while. This is the first line Monty talks to
me. He is less talkative…
After rest we start again. Now river called
Jagatsuk river start follow us and this will follow us till our trek. Though it’s
cold but due to sunny weather it is bearable. When I reach camp site one porter
comes and show me a huge stone and said – Can
you see that stone ? Go there. You will find something interesting. When I
reach there I saw a big and clear snake fossil on it. One of local told me – This fossil appeared few years ago.
Anyways I back to camp site and sit in the river bank. Everything is silent. I
can only hear the voice of river flowing between huge mountains which become
red when sun goes down. In night temperature is in minus so I sit near to fire
finish dinner and went to sleep…
Continue…
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)