Some More Memories of Kedarnath Trek

Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 4

Morning I wake up early but there are no signs of life so I went inside again. After 1 hour when I back helicopters carrying urgent supplies have started hovering simultaneously on clear blue sky. I went to temple. Decoration is still going on. I sit in front of temple verandah and watch everybody working. One policeman come and says  – I am working here since last 3 months. He describes me the same scenario, which already many have told me. I was here when that tragedy happens. What an atrocious time, luckily I remain safe. I sit there for long watching up above Himalayan peaks, sky, clouds and working people. Far from temple, River Mandakini is flowing slowly with sweet whisper. Religious songs are echoing in valley. I returns for lunch and came to know that procession of Lord Shiva could be reach anytime. Guy who serves me lunch tells me – Madam local village people and other pilgrims will be come with procession then you would be no more alone. I give him smile and concentrate on delicious lunch. When I back to tent site, I could see lots of hustle bustle there. No need to say that security personal and journalists has started coming now. Meanwhile procession also reached with array of pilgrims. I saw few women too so now nobody would say I am the only woman here. Anyways they are dancing, singing and enjoying the moment a lot. Now I am also part of procession with my camera…

Temple is now a chaotic place. 3-4 hours later, everything becomes silent. I also back to tent where five members  of very reserve Maharashtrian family, one old man, three guys and one more trekking loving man are accompany me today. Trekking loving man and three boys introduce themselves to me. Old man, sort of talkative, shares his adventures stories nonstop. One of three boys tells me – my neighbor’s family was here in that fled flesh and they lost. Their family still waits for them. Can you imagine how difficult it is to believe that their family has been lost. I can feel the pain coz I see them hysterically waiting for family. His eyes fill with tears and mine too so I walk out. It’s drizzling and temperature is going down. I can see bustle everywhere. Spending sometime outside, I back to tent where without waiting for anything man starts again with his adventures stories. It was dark so we went for dinner. We had to wait in a long queue for dinner and now I am sharing my dinner with lots of moths flying over lights. I back to tent and lie down…

 Morning I wake up early but I had to wait long to get fresh. I went to temple though door would be open at 8.54 A.M. Trekking loving man accompanying me. We went backside of temple. He tells me - when I came here in past years, it was a cluttered with huge buildings and luxuries hotels and River Mandakini was in opposite direction but now I am amuse to see that except snow nothing is left here after fled flesh. When we back, temple was bustling with police activities because VVIP’s can reach here anytime. Pilgrims starts making queue for opening ceremony. I also join them but suddenly all become chaotic coz Door Opening is getting close and VVIP’s are also reaching. All media is here and journalists coming again and again for asking same silly questions like – How you feeling now ? How are the arrangements ? Do you think that Yatra could be manage successfully? Are you happy with arrangements and so on. In every second, journalists coming and asking the same questions. All become hectic, messy and irritating...

Suddenly I saw saint sitting on snow cover roof far from this chaos and enjoying Hukka (Smoke). Meanwhile queue amalgamate into mismanage mob. Temple premise is echoing with prayers enchanting by pilgrims. Around 8.58 Door Opens. VVIP’s take first Darshan and went off. Now it’s others turn and all want to go first so no one is following line and I stuck between mob.  I am struggling to come out but now there is no point to back so I flow in this huge ocean. Somebody push me from behind and I hit with long stone stairs. Crossing stairs I entered into big room carved with ancient statues of god and goddess but its dark, smoky and jam packed with pilgrims. I am struggling to keep my steps forward. Most of the time I was not moving but I been pushed forward through mob. Anyhow, after 1 hour struggle I reach to the holy serene of Lord Shiva. Now I can say I have completed my trek successfully though going out is another struggle…

After lots of struggle, I came out and stand for a while to take a look to the temple, chaos, snow, peaks, sky, workers and everything then back to tent. I will back through Helicopter where again it was long wait due to VVIP’s movements. Atlast I get Helicopter, which will drop me Fata village. I am too late so worrying for bus to Haridwar coz I don’t want to go by same root which I took for arrival. It’s 1.15 and after half n hour I get taxi for Guptakshi and from Guptkashi to Rudrprayag. It’s 4 O’clock now but luckily I get another taxi for Rishikesh which is near to Haridwar. Now I can enjoy the beauty of valley but wishing to reach soon. Around 10 P.M. I reach Rishikesh and take bus for Haridwar. It’s been 11 P.M. but my luck favor me again and get bus for Nainital.

I been part of one devastating story, which is still scaring me, but when I back to Nainital I open news channel to keep myself update but heard one more heartbreaking news about Nepal Earthquake…

End

Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 3

 I wake up early in cold morning for trek. Today I have to trek tough 16 km. Labors and remain catastrophe marks and River Mandakini is again my company. This area was badly damage in 2013 fled flesh. Old root is history now and new root is in opposite direction. Labors are amusing to see me walking alone and some wants me to take their pictures.  Public toilets and drinking water has arranged here. After walking almost 4 km I get a small teashop. Still it’s very cold and sun is nowhere. I ask to shopkeeper about this season – Hoping tourist will come now. Last year only few tourists came. Conditions were also in mess but this year conditions are much better. He says making tea  - my shop was also damaged which I reestablish again. When I came here first time, I was stunned thrilled and scared to see dead bodies all over. He then asks about myself and says - you are the only girl whom I am looking going upside alone…

After short break, I move again. Birds’ sounds are echoing in this wilderness. Huge waterfalls are suddenly existing on the way which is refreshing mood. After crossing a band magnificent view of Himalayan peaks Meru-Sumeru surprised me. I stop for a while and glair Himalaya and its hugeness. I reach Rambada after 2-3 hours walk which was dangerously vanished in 2013 fled flesh. Snow is all over in Rambara and gang of labors clearing snow welcomes me. I cross narrow road between snow. Leader of labors tell me that he is here from one month and has been clear tons of snow. He shows me few glaciers, which slipped and shift onto road…

From Rambada trek become steep up with snow all around. I cross one steep ascend and meet another gang of labor clearing snow. They invite me to have tea. I am tired so I accept invitation. They offer lukewarm water and black tea. This gang is working since 3 months. Raj Bahdur says - When I came here, area was dump under the snow. We worked hard to clear snow but unfortunately whole day we cleared snow and in night, it became snow again. Now weather is much better though still lots of snow. I ask him about Monal bird, which found in this region. He screams and says – I saw this bird often on land. We call it Monali. I can show you right now if you come with me. I follow him and for my surprise, he shows me Monal, a big blue bright bird. I sight Moanl first time here…

After this surprise treat I move off. Snow is increasing in every step and I have to walk between huge snow walls. Luckily, temperature is good for walking. I can see Pink and white Rhododendron tress on the way. When I reached Lincholi, one more stoppage, some government officers stop me to check my Biometric Card. They also ask me the same questions, which I have answered many times before. They tell me I am the only female who is going to Kedar…

After Lincholi 7 km. strenuous trek remain. Steep ascend and with both side towering snow walls. If in any case walls shift a bit I will press below the tons of snow. Where its not possible to clear snow they made stairs on snow which gives feel like going to touch the sky. Stunning scenario is only factor, which is keeping all problems easy. Deep blue-sky, small clouds, lovely view of Himalaya, snow is all over like film story. But in this extreme conditions labors are working hard without any basic facilities. They don’t have good shoes. They don’t have good clothes. They don’t have good equipment too but they have big smile on their faces which is making me smile too. For me they are the real heroes…

By the time I reach Kedarnath it was cold, cloudy, windy and snowing. I went to Tent site and book tent. I dumps sack and went to temple, which is 1 km.  All including debris of buildings divested by fled flesh is under the snow sheet. Huge machines and thousands of workers, working hard to make this place energetic. Officers’ quarters and other public facilities all are available here. I saw temple from far away. Once temple was invisible because of shops and other buildings covered it from front but now view is clear – Labor working here tells me from behind. He again says - Behind the temple, there was a complete town but fled flesh washed away everything. Now people should aware of their limits otherwise nature won’t wait to teach them another lesson. I shake my head in agreeing position and move near to temple…

Temple is decorating with flowers and garlands for tomorrow s’ big day. Surrounding of temple is still cover under snow. Weather turns horrifically so workers working here call me in there shelter for tea. I went inside sit there with glass of tea. Workers are still working in this awful weather. Their cloths have been wet but without any complaints, they are working nonstop. Keep them active they are making fun with each other and enjoying these harsh conditions. Due to snow and cold winds temperature drop quickly. Worker tells me – Don’t worry madam! Sky will get clear by the evening and morning sun would be sharp like today. I trust on him afterall he is working here since last three months. I enjoy their company and learn how to stay happy in weird conditions. After spending lovely moments with them, I back to my tent. I am alone in this 100 or more tent’s colony but they provide light through solar power so not scary. Around 7 P.M. I went for dinner. Kitchen team serves delicious food with delightful manner. I am delighted. Around 8 P.M. snow stops and sky get clear as that guy told me…

Continue… 

Kedarnath Door Opening Ceremony 2015 – Part 2

Bus is going upward through a narrow road between thick jungle.  On the way, I saw few parts of huge and historical Chandrapurgadi King’s palace. Many small settlements coming on the way and temperature are still down. Adi Badri is another settlement, which is famous for historical and ancient temple. It’s chilly here. Passenger sitting next to me says - This is coldest area. Only few days ago it was a snowfall here. Soon bus reaches Karnprayag, which is confluence of River Bhagirathi and River Alaknanda.  River Alaknanda is vast and huge rapid’s river…

Karnpryag is pilgrim city. Old Karnprayag has remained sign of traditional time like traditional market, traditional house, traditional roads but New Karnprayg is combo of concrete jungle and bursting traffic. Through the beautiful and warm road bus reach Rudraprayag in 2 hours and I walk 1 km. for bus station. After finishing lunch, I get share taxi for Vishnuprayag. 70 years Wrinkle faced, baldhead man sitting next to me. He start saying– I come here every year for door opening ceremony. I want to know about devastating fled flesh year 2013. He says – I was not here but my known family was witnessed that. Road going along with river Alaknanda and I can see the fled marks, which are showing velocity and volume of fled. All huge constructions near to river have been vanished and river level came up because of silt. I reach Vishnuprayag in 3 hours. Here it’s drizzling, which is increasing wrinkles on my face. Here again I ask bus for Gaurikud. Vishnuprayag is main Pilgrimage city but locals are not seeing excited. I go to teashop and wait for taxi. Teashop guy tells me – we are not yet interested in pilgrimage but let see how it goes in May and June…

I get bus for Saptakund after long wait. Shanta is my co passenger. I ask her – why not locals are showing interest in pilgrimage ?  She replies adjusting her bag – all are still in trauma of 2013 fled flesh. We are still struggling for our lives. Many families have lost everything in fled. Many people are still lost. Houses, lands, and shops everything has destroyed badly. However, Government gave some relief but that was not enough to reestablish. Light drizzle makes people terrified though they are recovering but it will take time.  Her voice start trembling and she keeps silence. I also left her with her silence…

I would have to walk 6 km from Saptkund to Gaurikund but police officer stops me to go due to security and safety reasons. When I explain I am journalist he let me go but before leave, I had to make biometric card. Meanwhile procession of goddess comes from village, which will also move to Kedarnath on 23^rd.  I start walking and now River Mandakini and labors, working on road, are accompanying me. Though Mandakini is very calm and slow river but that fled night river become horrible. One labor says –Human bodies, animal bodies, cars, buses, mud & stones were flowing in water. River changed the direction and swallow whatever and whoever come in front of her way.  Awful scenario. I even don’t want to talk about it. Don’t Know how many bodies are beneath this road. He back to his work and I starts walk…

Huge JBC machines and workers are working hard to make journey possible. Walking along with river, I reach Gaurikund in 2.30 hours. Crashed buildings debris welcomes me here. I can visualize where would have been water level that day. Apart from these, Gaurikund amazed me because I was thinking here I will get pile of debris only and would have to spend night in tent but 15-16 year old boy surprise me to ask if I want hotel. Hotel room astonish me again coz room is decorated with double bed, one table, two chairs, TV in corner and charging plugs. Bathroom is also clean and comfortable. Just opposite from Gairsain hotel. I take bath with hot water, which needed badly. After getting fresh, I went to Goddess Gauri Temple. Temple is anciently architect with white walls, blue wooden windows and doors…

 I met an old man who works in hotel. My straight question to him -  Are you here that fled night ? Yes. I was here that night. My son called me, who was at Kedarnath, and said – Its heavy rain here. All buildings have been damage and water coming down vigorously along with mud and stones. Go to safe places. I alerted all in hotel and went to upward. One family, whom I alert, has husband wife been in room but kids were outside. Husband left her wife in room and went to search kids but when I saw after few days wife has been dead in room. Thousands of Dead bodies were all around. He stops after this. Few minutes later, he smile and says – I am lucky my son back to home safely. He invites me to attend temple worship at 6. I went to see natural hot water pond known as Gaurikund but this also has been vanished. River Mandakini change direction in opposite side. Huge buildings are now heap of debris. Don’t know how many bodies are under my foot. This thought is killing me. I goes to market where again I can see the fled marks in broken shutters and walls. Many shops are still closed. Man sitting here says - Road had been damaged so we have walk till Gaurikund for every little thing…

Around 6 P.M. I reach temple where priest has start worship. Ringing bells echoing inside tiny dark room and aroma of sandal is all over. Priest has oil lamp in his hand which he moving circularly. This went till 20 minutes and then priest gives me flower petals as blessings.  I went to tea-shop where 19-20 years old guy welcomes me. He serves tea and says - you are only girl whom I am looking here in this season. Are you alone ? You are not scarring here alone? Reply his questions I ask him – are you here that fled night ? No. I was not here but when I back, I was shocked to see everything. Debris was all over. My shop had damaged and filled with silt and three dead bodies. It was difficult for me to clean everything. Bodies spoiled badly so not able to recognize them and who are alive, was surviving for the life coz nothing remain to eat. We get food from village to help them as much as possible but our village was also suffering from shortage of food and government was nowhere to help us…

Heartbreaking stories are coming one by one. I back to hotel and sit in verandah till late night. I am still thinking about moments, which made Kedarnath into a ghostly place. Suddenly sounds of new film songs hit my eardrums. I saw men and women are dancing and enjoying a marriage party. This brings me back into life. It feels good that people are enjoying their life in this ghostly place. Suddenly I feel hunger coz I haven’t eat anything since morning. After dinner, I back to room and lie down…

Continue…