Tapovan : A Life Time Experience - Part - 4

After almost half-n hour, I wake up and move towards Babaji’s Hut. There I saw a man wearing trek-suit, sunglass and covered his head with white cloth. His curly and knotted hairs are poking out from the head cloth. Babaji looks me when I greet him. He greets me back with hand gesture. Amit introduce me to Babaji and says – He is Mauni Baba (reticent hermit). He doesn’t speak to anybody. He explains his feelings through the hand gestures. I know him from many years so I understand his language. After introduction, I sit at verandah where Amit serve me tea in small steel glass. With the sip of tea, I saw the group of blue sheep moving in front of Babaji’s hut where a little creek is flowing. I ask about the creek to Amit. He tells me – This is Aakas Ganga comes from Peak Shivlinga and merge with River Bhagirathi in Gaumukh. River Aakash Ganga is a real source of River Ganga...

I am so much exhaust so I only watch them moving around with the sip of tea. After a while when I get my breath back I slowly went to near the place to observe them roaming freely. I am amaze to see that they are so confident that I am not gonna harm to them. One baby Blue Sheep comes in front of my camera lens and then his or her mother come and take him off from my camera. They are running and eating and drinking water and relaxing and enjoying warmth in frosty temperature. They show every possible drama in this open amphitheater of nature. Then suddenly all went far away from my eyes. I turn back after watching the refreshing show…

By the time, I back Amit call me for lunch. I went into the Babaji’s small but neat and clean corrugated roof hut made of stones. Mud floor has covered with woolen mats. Hut is warm and cozy. In one corner, Babaji’s kitchen existing where he makes food on kerosene stove. Babaji serves Khichdi, which is no doubt very tasty. After lunch Amit show me my hut which is same like Babaji’s hut. In one corner of this hut has temple and in other corner Babaji has stored bedding for the guests who stay here. I take my bedding place it on the floor and I lie down for some time…

In the evening I went for a long walk near to the River Akash Ganga. Suddenly weather become nasty and snow fall starts. I can see the snow flacks falling on my face and on my clothes. I am far from my hut which is scary because there is no any shelter where I can hide. It is a big relief to see one hut in distant. I walk towards hut to get shelter. One more Babaji (hermit) welcome me there. I am surprise to see him because I was thinking hut is deserted. Anyway, I greet to Babaji and went near to the hut. He lit the fire and asks me to come near it. He asks me after some time – am I here for trekking ? I nodded my head in yes…

Now when I am comfortable I saw the Babaji. Copper color face normal eyes long mated locks hair tie on head sweet spoken person is a Baba’ji. I ask him about him – he says with very soft voice – I am Sai Muni. Living here for Tapshya (meditation). He invites me inside the hut, which is same like Mauni Babaji’s hut. Burning kerosene stove to make herbal tea he said – I have cooking gas too but gas has been finished and its not easy to get gas cylinder here in this altitude so I use kerosene stove too. He offers me tea and says – Its herbal tea. It will give you warmth in this weather. I take a first sip and really, tea is very flavorsome. I can feel the flavor of different herbs. With the sip of tea he tells me about him and says – Life is very difficult here in winters. In coming winter, I might go somewhere else for meditation. After spend a good time with him I turn back. However Its not snow fall now but very chilly…

It is almost dark when I reach to my hut and Amit calls for dinner. Dinner is another delicacy in 5000 mt altitude. Babaji serves me delicious green vegetable with fried yellow lentil dal and rice. Amit Tell me that babaji is appreciating my efforts to reach in this height. After dinner he gives me boil water to drink with smiling face. I wash my pots and back to hut. Sky is crystal clear and stars are shining like a diamonds though chilly temperature is making it impossible to stay out...

I wake up early morning stars are still in the sky but soon it becomes sunrise.  Peak Bhagirathi, Peak Shivling, Peak Meru and other peaks are gleaming in the beauty of morning rays. I again go for a little walk. When I back Babaji gives me porridge for breakfast. After breakfast I pack my stuff and start return trek. This time trek would be steep descent. I cross this glacier patch fast before it gets hot and glacier start melting…

 From Goumukh trek is easy so I walk like a lazy girl. I can again feel the sound of River Bhagirathi, sound of cold chilly wind. I can be a part of huge mountains and snow peaks. I can again see the color of jungle. Now it’s time to leave everything behind, so not feeling good. I sit in a place to inhale this beauty inside me. I see the River which is bending between the valley here and sky is busy with nomad clouds. Everything is so pure and so beautiful. Yesterday when I was going to Tapovan all were coming near to me but now all are going away slowly slowly. This is the part of every trekking. With the very slow speed, I reach the campsite…

I reach ashram by lunch. After lunch, I pitch my tent. In dusk, I went for short walk near River Bhagirathi. Peaks are blazing in evening light however chilly winds are making temperature freezing. When I back entertaining and hilarious gully cricket match has been start but soon all went to the Ashram as it was seriously cold. I too went to Ashram for dinner. Sky is shining with lots of stars and galaxies but temperature is killing so I went into tent… 

Whole night I struggle with cold. When I wake up in the morning my tent had layered with frost. When I saw all around, it was frosty everywhere. Night must be chilly no doubt. Due to frost, my fingers get numb even inside the gloves. I try to fold my sleeping bag and remove my tent but my hands are still numb. I went to Ashram for the breakfast. When I back, sun has spread rays over the valley and white layer of frost has start melting slowly. I roam around in sun light to warm myself, then pack up everything, and get ready for trek…

 I am walking slowly as if I want to make distance longer. Its tough to get back from such places. With my every forward step, everything is leaving behind and I am going near to civilization again. Colorful jungle, huge peaks of Himalaya, River Bhagirathi everything is leaving behind. Though River Bhagirathi will be with me till Uttarakshi but yes this is the most beautiful part of River Bhagirathi with roaring voice. I am walking walking walking and just thinking of all these only. I am in my own when Amit stop me from behind and says _ we reached Chirbasa. Now take little rest then will move forward. I wanna tell him that I don’t wanna move but I know I have to go…

I stop in Chirbasa and I start getting the sign of civilization. In a small hut-restaurant I wanna drink tea and eat something but due to price issue I haven’t eat anything though I am badly hungry. I saw Maggi’s Noodle packets here, which have been banned in all over India. Anyway I walk further and get away from the place. Trek is easy now and I am near to the Gangotri.  Soon leaving everything behind I reach Gangotri… 

In Gangotri I ate lunch and then after lots of struggle get taxi for Uttarakashi. I will stay in a same place at Uttarakhsi and next morning I will go to Dehradoon and then to Nainital. Bus and taxi journey is more tiresome then the trekking... 

After all struggles I spend, a beautiful and memorable time in trekking and now its time for rest at home…

End 

Tapovan : A Life Time experience - Part - 3

Weather was clear but cold when I wake up in the morning. I move straight to Ashram for tea and breakfast. Then pack-up my tent and sleeping bag dump them in the Ashram coz Amit told me I can get everything in another ashram at Tapovan. After done all packing I start trek. Today’s trek would be straight till Goumukh but after Gaumukh it will be difficult. I start trek in sunny and bright weather. Few small and naughty clouds are playing with deep blue sky. Though trek is plain but whole path is rocky, on which I have to be careful with balance otherwise my feet can be bend between rocks…

 Anyway keep the road aside but scenario is still beautiful. River Bhagirathi is flowing like serpent with roaring voice colorful jungle is giving the essence of springtime. Above all huge Himalayan peaks are showing their strong presences. Till the Goumukh many devotees are walking in groups. As I like walking alone, so I am trying to walk fast so that no one can bother me.  After three hours of trekking, I reach Gaumukh…

 It says Goumukh is a source of River Ganga. Shape of this source is like cow’s mouth so it’s called Goumukh. Goumukh Glacier is the largest glacier of Asia too. I want to go to near to the source but Amit told me in warning tone- it is dangerous so better not to go near. Stones fall every time from upward and melting snow pieces are making it more dangerous. Then I went near to the River Bhagirathi to touch the water, which is chilled and few saints are bathing in this chilled water. Strange…

I sit silently in one place and gaze around. Whole valley surrounded with stunning Himalayan Peaks. Deep blue sky is adding more charm in the beauty with small naughty clouds. I can hear slow rhythmic sound of river Bhagirathi. This is the only sound, which is breaking the silence of the place. I am indulging deep and deep into the spell of nature.  I am here to feel the voice of my inner, to search myself, to listen my inner sole…

 I am still in this spell when suddenly Amit comes and tell me to start trek for Tapovan, which is straight up from here. He takes me to the place from where we will start. I look upward where no any path exists. Only I can see the brown heap of mud. I confirm again but Amit says - this is the path. I place my first step on this heap and I almost shout – oh!!!  this is slippery!!!  Then I scrutinize the path intensely and find that the path is a mixture of mud and melting snow. Actually I am walking on glacier and in hot weather snow is melting and making slippery mixture with mud. Small rolling stones are making this more strenuous…

Gomukh is now leaving behind and I am moving up. Jungle has vanished and brown dry mountains have taken place in scenario. In many places, I saw deep crevasses. If anyone will slip inside these crevasses, no one can save them. These are the killer cracks. I remember what Amit told me about his friends who died in such type of crevasses in Kalinidikhal trek…

 Anyway, trek is getting tough and scorching sun is no mood of mercy. The only charm in this struggle is beautiful Himalaya and Deep blue sky with naughty clouds. I take rest for a while and then start walking again. It is too steep up and now I am struggling for every step and want to sit after every step but Amit not letting me rest. When I have trekked much then Amit told me near small water fall – You can rest here. This place is cold too. Before Amit completes his sentence I already put my rucksack down. Amit look at me with giggle and says – you may take long rest here because after this final ascend is difficult though it’s not very long…

When I sit near water I notice few black birds hovering over me. These birds are not crow. After a while birds start coming to me and trying to snatch food from my hand. This is Yellow Billed Choug bird. This is smellier to the crow but size of the bird is small and beak color is yellow. In the higher altitude they don’t get food easily so they come to humans for the search of food. Anyway I ask to Amit – Amit do you know the bird? Which bird is this? Answer he gives is the funniest answer. He innocently replied like an expert – Ma’am this is Chinese crow. In winters when china’s weather becomes cold they come here for warmth. I didn’t say anything just smile…   

After this short break I again start trekking. Though I am only few steps ahead but every step is becoming heavier. My breaths are going abnormal and I am drenched in sweat. I struggle for each step. I want to take long rest after every step. I saw upward from where Amit shouting – Madam just two more steps and you will be in Tapovan. I hear his voice and want to run but my steps are not moving. I sit down for a while and when I stand up I finish my trek in four or five steps…

 I put my last step and I was on Tapovan. I saw a huge field covered with dry yellow brown grass and huge Himalaya peaks. I sign with relief and lie down on earth. There is nothing between me and sky. Though sky has been covered by the grey clouds but still I keep watching sky and then close my eyes. I was feeling so light and relax that I fall asleep for a while…

#tapovan

#adventure